Technical data only

[GG]

Bearing lists, one nice original from RIV

Any idea of the dates of these? Thanks.

[davidwheeler]

Lambda wiring diagram VII+ series.

[davidwheeler]

Autovac = Le Nivex fuel pump according to The Modern Motor Mechanic 1955

[davidwheeler]

Australian VIIIth undertray sketch

[davidwheeler]

Fitting new stubaxle/pillars.
Remove springs etc. and lower guide 111008 as per instructions in the Book.
Fit sleeve 101014 screwing it down an inch or so.
Tap dpwnwards using a suitable drift (such as a block of wood) by a few mm in order to remove screw 10721 which is hiding at the back.  You can then unscrew 101058 - providing it is not seized!  
101012 then is removed upwards.     It is likely to be seized so tap it downwards until it is free then clean and lubricate it.  You can then fit a suitable tubular spacer and draw it upwards with 101014.
Insert new pillar assembly making sure you include ring 101058 above the stub axle and rings 111097 and 111009 below it.
Refit bottom sleeve 111008.
Refit sleeve 101012, using 101014 screwed on a bit if you need to tap it down.   Make sure the hole for the screw 10721 is in the right position.
Tap it down a few mm. past its proper place and screw on 101058 fully into place (it goes to the end of the thread), fit screw 10721 but not too tight, then draw the sleeve back up into place with 101014.   Tighten the screw and the sleeve is now properly fitted.
Fit thrust bearing and shield and sleeve 101011.  These all slide down inside 101012.
Fill the shock absorber with oil if you have not already done so.
Insert the springs and re-assemble the top end as per the Book.      
I found I had to draw up the damper rod 101034 using the spring extractor tool because it was too had a pull by hand unlike the old and presumably worn original in order to fit 101041.

[davidwheeler]

Check camber and castor with spacer and set square with bubble level before installing springs.

[davidwheeler]

Re. vertical shaft engine cam drive.

After correspondance with Mike Benwell and study of the Spares Catalogue, we have discerned the correct configuration of the bearings, to whit:-

In the head, the top bearing is a thrust bearing and the bottom one a plain ball bearing.
In the block, the same.

Thus, the thrust is directed downwards on both shafts, being pushed down on the top shaft and pulled down on the bottom one.

I found I needed about 1mm. of packing washers on both shafts to eliminate all play and ensure a trace of preload.  I even fitted the upper gear on the lower shaft (if you see what I mean) without the key and then pulled up the nut to check that it did not skid round on the shaft and also that it required a little tap to free it from the taper.  I made up an extractor to remove the gear and found that the threaded holes in the original gear are Whitworth but in the Consortium gear metric.  Fortunately, if you are removing an original gear, metric bolts will fit well enough!

[GG]

Check camber and castor with spacer and set square with bubble level before installing springs.

Mark Bondini found some small magnetic inclinometers on Amazon, about 3" long - that just attach, and give you the angle from vertical (once they are set up correctly). Pretty cool stuff....

[davidwheeler]

OIL FILTER

Searched for Purflux L107 which is the filter we have used in the past.  Very hard to find and very expensive.
inlinefilters.co.uk supply several equivalents of which the cheapest is FIN-FL70586.    Dimensions are right and I imagine it is no worse than the somewhat crude original.

[davidwheeler]

Bill Smith on distortion etc in lambda engines (via Viva Lancia)    https://docplayer.net/126375885-cracking-and-corrosion-in-lancia-lambda-engines.html