the.cern
Permanent resident
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« Reply #45 on: 23 September, 2010, 09:37:33 PM » |
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Thank you for that Neil, I'll try it as soon as I can get my heat gun back from my son. I've been helping to rebuild his house as well as lime plastering a Welsh longhouse in N Wales in between the work on the Lancias. I must say that after 40yrs of design and supervision of works it is so satisfying to actually be doing the work and to see the results of my own efforts (although I must admit that sometimes I have to have more than one stab at some things !!!!!).
Best wishes,
Andy
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the.cern
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« Reply #46 on: 27 September, 2010, 07:20:20 AM » |
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Well, Jim came round to see what he could play with ......... he decided the area to the rear of the offside wheel arch deserved attention and, of course, out came the cutting disc !!! The photos show the result. Basically, once again we've got off lightly, a lot of bare steel, a lot of rust and a small amount of paint !! How the bare steel has survived when the bottom of the section has rusted through I do not understand, but am exceedingly grateful !! The whole area was cleaned up, the necessary repair pieces made, welded in then the whole area was painted and seam sealed. It's so easy to write but a considerable amount of work. I love the curved swage in the bottom panel, Jim apologised as he thought it was a tad longer than the original, although as almost all of that was rusted out I don't know how he knew.
The photo of the inside of the panel cut out to gain access to the area clearly shows how well the individual pieces that make up the section fit together, I wonder if all the other panels were cut as fitted as accurately ??
Further up-dates in due course,
Andy
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the.cern
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« Reply #47 on: 07 November, 2010, 09:30:47 PM » |
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Time marches on and a little more gets done.
I'll soon be in possession of a pair of front wheel cylinders, repair kits for the master cylinder, the rear cylinders and the reservoir, which was a devil to get apart, so reassemby of the brake system should be underway soon. Also I'll be getting my hands on a gasket and seal set for the transaxle assembly so that should be back together soon, with the exception of the clutch which is still an unknown.
With regard to the body its more of the same, repair one bit,find two more heavily corroded areas !!! This weekend it was the turn of the off-side front wheel arch. First appearances, as ever, were deceptive. We knew the bottom of the inner wing at the rear was a mess but thought the remainder was not too bad. However, clearing off the muck and underseal revealed the appalling way in which the car was put together. The rear panel of the inner wheel arch was attached to the inner fore and aft panel with blobs of weld maybe 6-10mm long at, say, 60mm ccs. A similar state of affairs prevailed where the panel was attached to the outer wing panel (just forward of the A pillar). The top and top outer edge of the panel was not attached in any way bit simply butted up to the top panel with a U shaped plastic strip slipped over the panel edge.
I'm sure this is the original construction and the top of the panel butting up to the body is by design, but can anyone advise why it was done this way ?
Anyway, we decided to cut through the blobs of weld, about 16 of them altogether, and removed the panel in order to deal with any problems in the void behind. It seems the back of the removed panel has never had so much as a coat of paint and it is amazing that it has survived and will actually, after cleaning, painting and protecting, be welded back in. The exposed inner faces exposed by this exercise are similarly rusted but again, will only need a suitable paint and protection system. I will drill and plug the back face of the A pillar (which will subsequently be hidden by the alloy trim) to allow copious amounts of Waxoyl to be squirted everywhere. Hopefully this prevent further problems.
The first photo shows the inside, exposed face of the removed panel, the second shows the hidden back face after the wire brush in an angle grinder treatment and the third shows the void which needs much more attention before the paint etc. may be applied.
Hopefully we'll soon get this side finished and then we'll go over and attack the near-side, with the benefit of experience to help. However, I am not looking forward to the challenges of the front, there doesn't seem to be much of the bottom 6" of the panels between the side lights and there will be a lot to do around the grille opening, parts of which seem to be multi-skinned and badly corroded. How bad it actually is, only time will tell !!!!
Time to get a cuppa and put my feet up, more to follow .... sometime!!
Andy
PS Neil, your tip on the use of a heatgun to assist in underseal removal is a winner, thank you.
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williamcorke
Rebel Poster
Posts: 708
B10
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« Reply #48 on: 07 November, 2010, 09:43:34 PM » |
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PS Neil, your tip on the use of a heatgun to assist in underseal removal is a winner, thank you.
My own B20 underseal stripping adventure has also been eased by Neil's advice. Heat does really help with the removal of the main sections of the bituminous underseal applied to the car when new (I assume, as it's under - read, above - the fuel tank). The thin strips of material that remain are easily dealt with using a wire brush and a high speed drill. |
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'37 Aprilia
'50 B10
'53 B20
'68 Flavia Vignale
'55 Giulietta Sprint
S1 Land Rover
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JohnMillham
Lapsed
Permanent resident
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« Reply #49 on: 08 November, 2010, 09:56:47 AM » |
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Heat guns and petrol tanks don't mix! I once had to photograph the remains of a fume cupboard in which a scientist had used a heat gun to evaporate some solvent. There wasn't much left of it!
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fay66
Permanent resident
Posts: 6232
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« Reply #50 on: 08 November, 2010, 10:27:24 AM » |
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What was his speciality? The Big Bang Theory  Brian 8227  |
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« Last Edit: 08 November, 2010, 10:34:24 AM by fay66 »
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
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williamcorke
Rebel Poster
Posts: 708
B10
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« Reply #51 on: 08 November, 2010, 01:19:02 PM » |
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Don't worry - fuel tank was bone dry...
Boom!
Good point though.
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'37 Aprilia
'50 B10
'53 B20
'68 Flavia Vignale
'55 Giulietta Sprint
S1 Land Rover
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the.cern
Permanent resident
Posts: 1494
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« Reply #52 on: 03 July, 2011, 08:59:59 PM » |
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Apologies for the long intermission, much has happened on many different fronts, but the good news is that work on the B20 has continued, really without a break. Jim has been the perpetrator, I seem to have found other things getting in the way, mostly not good (emergency appendectomy for example) but other things have been excellent, bought an Appia and have eventually limewashed that lounge in N Wales !!!!
I've not got the energy to describe Jim's endeavours since my last post, but I will fill in the gaps (as Jim has had to do in numerous locations on the of the car) in due course.
The main reason for this post is to show a few photos of my new toy, its a little crude but definitely seems to do the intended job, that is to lift and rotate the shell, not the whole car, it is definitely not robust enough for that. My car is a shell plus fixed glass plus the steering column and the jig seems to cope well enough with that load. However I would not want to go much above that. It is a little late in the day for this purchase, at least so far as the welding is concerned, but having the underside presented in the vertical plane and at a sensible level will make the cleaning/rust removal/aplication of protective layers a relatively easy and (more importantly) will I hope allow for a thorough job.
The photos show the inaugural launch yesterday, Jim has texted today to say that it has not fallen over or collapsed in the night, so we'll call that a success !!!!!!!! I'll be more than happy to provide manufacturer details once I've addressed any foibles, but I think that it will swiftly prove to be one of my best kit buys yet. We will see ...........
Andy
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #53 on: 03 July, 2011, 09:59:10 PM » |
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As much as anything its interesting to see one from those angles - and as you say a much better chance of getting the job done completely and correctly.
David
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David Laver, Lewisham.
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the.cern
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Posts: 1494
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« Reply #54 on: 05 July, 2011, 04:51:21 AM » |
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I had the opportunity yesterday to take a few more photographs, fortunately we don't get to see too many Aurelias at this angle, but doesn't it look wonderfully aggressive!!
More to follow, soon I hope.
Andy
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ben
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« Reply #55 on: 07 July, 2011, 11:10:12 AM » |
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Looks like a jolly useful piece of kit Andy. Can I borrow it when you have finished the Aurelia---That is assuming Jim comes too!!
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the.cern
Permanent resident
Posts: 1494
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« Reply #56 on: 07 July, 2011, 02:32:38 PM » |
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That goes without saying and yes, I'll throw Jim in with the package as well !!!!!!!!!!!
We are still trying to find the exact balance point for the shell when mounted on the jig and are hoping that modifying the attachment brackets will do the job. We hope to have a go at it in a week or so, I'll keep posting as I think it is a really useful bit of kit and with that problem sorted will be so easy to use. The price was also very realistic !!!!!
Best wishes,
Andy
PS I hope I'm not too close to Jim when he sees this post !!!
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lancialulu
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« Reply #57 on: 07 July, 2011, 04:33:01 PM » |
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Leave it as it is and put it in the Goodwood sculpture park for a few hundred thousand quid.
Pure art in that setting!
Tim
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
Lancias:
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 Fulvia Sport 1600
1983 HPE VX
1988 Delta 1.6GTie
1998 Zeta 21. 12v
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Dilambdaman
Permanent resident
Posts: 1380
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« Reply #58 on: 07 July, 2011, 11:51:22 PM » |
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Some years ago Practical Classics magazine included plans to build a similar piece of kit using a pair of builders bandstands. Jonathan and I started but never finished the project although it appeared to have great potential.
Robin.
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Robin Lacey 3222
1932 Dilambda
1992 Y10 GTie
2012 Delta Mk3
2013 Ypsilon 846
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the.cern
Permanent resident
Posts: 1494
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« Reply #59 on: 08 July, 2011, 07:01:20 AM » |
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Robin, I remember that well and was sorely tempted, but was still a working man then.
Before I bought this, I did a lot of research on the web and there are numerous companies selling sophisticated bits of kit at, typically, £800, but also there are many people who have posted designs, including fully dimensioned drawings, for DIY versions. It seems all you need are the time and skills to carry out the work.
Andy
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