Dedra Turbo sensible everyday car?

[fay66]

My old 16vt FIAT Coupe ran at about 65 deg C when I first got it, but more like 90 when the thermostat was replaced.
Today in traffic the Dedra stayed around 190F, so I think the thermostat probably could do with changing. I'll give it a week or 2 and if nothing's changed take it to the garage.
Cheers
Duncan

Certainly sounds like it would be worth changing.

Brian
8227

[Duncan23]

Am I right in saying that 190 is where the water temp should be? How about the oil temp (that has a different scale on it)?
Cheers
Duncan

[fay66]

Am I right in saying that 190 is where the water temp should be? How about the oil temp (that has a different scale on it)?
Cheers
Duncan

Duncan,
Yes 190f sounds about right, My early Dedra Manual for 2.0ie States,
Coolant Thermostat Starts opening 83c Plus or minus 2c,
Maximum Opening 98c.
as for oil pressure my Italian Dedra quattro manual ( more or less same engine)
says,
 3.4- 4.9 bar at 100c and this is confirmed by my early Dedra Manual in English.
do you have the oil Temperature gauge, or have you the useless battery condition indicator that replaced the oil Temperature gauge fairly early on?
I always found it useful, and when really pressing on you could get the oil Temperature Gauge to read a higher temperature than the Water Coolant gauge. at which point the oil pressure started to drop slightly.

Brian
8227

[Duncan23]

It looks like I have oil temp and battery voltage. Not noticed an oil pressure guage - will have a look now...
Cheers
Duncan

[Duncan23]

Talked to my local specialist and he seemed happy the the thermostat is fine. 

The alarm is driving me mad (it's from the 90s made by UNGO and bleeps LOUDLY when you unlock it). I'm thinking I'll get a new Cat 1 alarm fitted. Is it with getting a turbo timer at the same time? It's not like I thrash it, but I hate sitting in the car waiting for a minute before I get out, and I'm somewhat paranoid!
Cheers
Duncan

[DavidLaver]

Turbo timer?  Its going to depend where you live...

A friend used to be about 200m from a motorway so well worth warming the car properly before leaving and if they had a turbo it would have been worth them sitting there outside the house for a while for a cool off.  Where we are in the suburbs the last couple of miles have to be at a "cooling off" speed, and I'd have thought cooler than sitting on the drive doing nothing.

As a guide price the last alarm I had fitted was £250 all in.  The RAC man enjoyed himself - really he did - removing the old one.

David

[Duncan23]

About half a mile from a dual carriageway. Sounds like it's probably worthwhile.

[fay66]

Talked to my local specialist and he seemed happy the the thermostat is fine. 

The alarm is driving me mad (it's from the 90s made by UNGO and bleeps LOUDLY when you unlock it). I'm thinking I'll get a new Cat 1 alarm fitted. Is it with getting a turbo timer at the same time? It's not like I thrash it, but I hate sitting in the car waiting for a minute before I get out, and I'm somewhat paranoid!
Cheers
Duncan

One of my Dedra's had a none Lancia alarm fitted and it kept locking me out, after the AA bloke eventualy got in I had the alarm rippped out. But be warned, Dedra's do not respond well when fitted with non genuine items, and there is a specific warning against doing so in the handbook, and it's not just Fiat/Lancia trying to scare you off so that you only buy from them.
Jack Romano had the same problem with his Dedra that took months to sort out, eventually it turned out that a non Lancia alarm had been fitted but removed, I assume it also caused problems, unfortunately they didn't remove the wiring correctly and left some of it still connect inside the Central Electrics (fuse box)

Brian
8227

[HF_Dave]

All the Lancia's I  bought in Ireland Had a Lazerline alarm fitted, made in italy and approved by Lancia. I never had a problem with theese alarms besides worn out key fobs. One of the Dedras I had in the 90s was fitted with one. I sold the car in 2000 to a guy who had a Delta 1.3 that failed the N.C t test, I think he was a bit miserable with the maintainance and hence it fell apart, anyway he called me up just before christmas to tell me the alarm had failed  . After 10yrs it can since I sold the car to him. You can guess my reply !. The alarm must be 17yrs old at this  stage. look up Lazerline, It may be worth while. David

[DavidLaver]

What I've always done on "classic" cars is a hidden switch to the fuel pump.  If its going to be nicked on a transporter I don't think an alarm/imobiliser is going to make much difference.  If they break in and hotwire they'll get 100m then abandon it with regret at taking on an unreliable old crock. 

If it needs a visual deterant then a steering lock or one of those handbrake/gear lever things.  I saw both the other week not having seen any for years.

Another thought is a motorsport type battery isolator.  You can get them with a low current (fused) circuit to keep the clock etc ticking over even if it won't start.  Above the passengers feet is a good spot.  Am I giving away too many of my secrets?  I usually leave that big red key in place but could pull it out to hide or take with you.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Electrical_Components/Battery_Isolators_Master_Switches/1594

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0500&agName=Battery+Master+Switches

The byepass type isn't jumping out at me from these lists but you get the idea...  Maybe its just a trick as to how you wire it.

David