1600 Engine rebuild

[zagatoboy]

Almost there, now the weather has warmed up i''ve been putting the engine back together, i honed the bores, fitted new rings, mains and big end bearings, had the head gas flowed, new timing chain and tensioner, it's all back together all i've got to do next is valve and ignition timing, refit the rad and she's ready.
Just a quick question, what oil do you use in the 1600? the book recommends a 20-50, should i use a fully synthetic or semi?
Cheers,
Tony.
ps Brian, i used the honing tool you showed me and it was great, did the job really well and better still, when i showed a mate which tool i was going to buy for the job, he'd just bought it for himself so i got it for free!

[Jai Sharma]

Hi,

I always used to use Castrol RS 10-60 which is fully synthetic and available (or used to be) from Opie Oils and others. Quite expensive but probably worth it in my view.

They also do a 0-40 which is too thin in my view.

I would wait for others to give views too.

[roddy]

With new rings and honed bores, I would suggest that you revert to the old practice of 'running-in' the engine for about a 1000 miles, using a pure mineral oil, then draining it.   As the engine would not be subject to extremes, then even a 10/40 would be suitable.   Using a synthetic oil right away, can prolong the bedding-in process, as it is just too slippery.   Like Jai, I would strongly recommend using a full synthetic oil, once 'run-in'.   Castrol RS gives good pressure when hot, but is getting quite difficult (and expensive!) to get.   You could try a 15/50 as the engine is quite fresh.   I must admit to being a convert to Morris Lubricants as representing good value for money, and of course the oil is drained off about annually, without necessarily having covered a very high mileage.

Regards - Roddy Young

[lancialulu]

I use castrol 10 60 fully synth and get it from Wilco chain - expensive but worth it.

Tim

[fay66]

ps Brian, i used the honing tool you showed me and it was great, did the job really well and better still, when i showed a mate which tool i was going to buy for the job, he'd just bought it for himself so i got it for free!

Pleased it worked well Tony, and even better if someone else paid for it!

Brian
8227

[Jai Sharma]

Just to add, Roddys advice to run in with non synthetic is good advice in my view.

[Neil]

I assume this would be suitable for any Fulvia engine rebuild or possibly all rebuilds?   
I am interested in the gas flowed head on your 1600, if much improvement is gained and if you any other changes, manifold/carbs etc.

[zagatoboy]

Thanks for the advice, will start with non synthetic then switch to castrol 20-50, I think modern oils are too light for these older engines.
Neil the gas flowing makes the engine run smoother and crisper also better on fuel, not that they're bad anyway but it does improve the performance.
If you do get it done warn whoever does it that the waterway is VERY thin and close to the inlet ports and is easily gone through, I had mine done at Ken Riley engineering who used to do all our Fulvia work many years ago so still remembers how careful you have to be.
You can have the inlet manifold ported as well but we never used to bother as the main gain was from the head work.
If you want his details let me know, he's in High Wycombe and does alot of race prep on engines.
I'm sure there are lots of other people on here that have more experience in race tuning though, I just wanted a good fast road car!

[angelorange]

I recommend SEP Kegworth near M1 J23A. They build lots of race bike engines and sorted out my cyl head with Neale Shepherd spec 35mm inlet valves. Peter Gerrish assembled the unit and she runs superbly after tune up by ex Fanalone owner John at Lambs Garage Clowne. Just won 1300-1600cc class at CSCC race Donnington with best lap of 1:35

[angelorange]

Motul 20-50 race oil is superb stuff - available at discount from Opie Oils for LMC club members.

[DavidLaver]

Well done !!

David

[zagatoboy]

Well, after a final push to get the engine finished at the weekend and some half moon gaskets that were NOT included in the FULL gasket set supplied by Omicron recieved today, I filled her with oil, connected the battery, turned over a few times with the low tension lead disconnected to pump oil round then, lead connected away she went on the button! almost thirty years since I last did this and chuffed that I can still do it.
Thanks to you all for your help here in advising and Nigel Hargreaves (My old boss) for his advice on the end of the phone!
The Fulvia is running beautifuly and will be running her in over the next few weeks before the winter weather arrives.
Next job brakes, new disc's and calliper rebuilds all round ermm................more agro, cut fingers and bruised hands lol
Thanks guy's!

[lancialulu]

Well done again!! When will it hit the road for all to see?

Tim

[zagatoboy]

Hi Tim,
It hit the road tonight to the local petrol station to pick up some beers! lol
Also need to do a couple of cv boots inner and outer for the mot, shouldn't take too long.
Will be at my next local meet at Bicester in a couple of months but will try to be around before then.
Tony.

[nistri]

Useful to check head bolt torque and valve clearance after about 400 miles. Andrea