flaminia

[Richard Fridd]

on the subject of buying next up is a voltage regulator @ 47 pounds +VAT

[Richard Fridd]

I have a lovely Flaminia camshaft in excellent condition available for sale. Not sure what it is worth - make me an offer!
Chris

hi Chris,i am not in need of a camshaft to my knowledge[touch wood!]and my restoration funds are allocated to various little[and probably larger jobs]but if you find yourself in need of any fulvia spares please let me know and perhaps we can swap something.best regards richard

[Richard Fridd]

thanks David for the pic reducing site .unsuccessful at present but i have gained imesh and a 'pc running too slow c/w an invitation to have the problem fixed!blackberry camera is handy though.but no more time to investigate the pc today as i have been testing my new ign.switch before sending the original to someone else locally who needs one.it seemed to work with the exception of operating the starter.so put the original back on and no joy with that either.joining the common and starter wires operates the starter- but not with the key in the 180 position only in the 90 degree position.i have tested both with a continuity meter and both work properly, so i think the problem is the wiring which is temporarily disconected from the dynamo/regulator.will try once that is reconnected.on stripping/checking the old and new switches it was apparent the original is very well made so i might keep that one installed.best regards richard

[LanciAlan]

FAIL  (but does this mean you now own a camera? What next - e-mail?)

A quick tutorial on posting pictures from my own experience:

You can display a picture in a forum post in 2 main ways:

(1) by sending ("uploading") the picture file to this forum . This is permanent but the file size is quite limited:  use the "additional options" link below the editing window to identify the location of the file on your computer to be uploaded. You may have to re-size the photo first - this is not just physical cropping but rather reducing its density or resolution. This service is free on-line - look up "photo re-sizer" in Google - I use this one and it saves the reduced file in the same place as the original on your computer but with a different name. http://www.picresize.com/

(2) by placing the picture file elsewhere on the internet and then creating a link to it which causes it to display here. This is only as permanent as the location of the image itself but it is not subject to file size limitations and you can also decide the size of its appearance here: use the "insert image" icon above the editing window to create the code "{img}ADDRESS{/img}" that finds and displays the image from whatever "ADDRESS" you insert. Typically you can use somewhere like Flikr or Photobox or Picasa (linked to Google) as a place on the internet to house and share your digital photos and, for each of your pictures, these places provide you with a link (i.e. the ADDRESS) that you then insert into the code above.

I will expect you to be posting in 3D technicolour by bedtime.

[Richard Fridd]

FAIL

will try again once i get some help as i could have processed a film in the time i have spent on posting a digi pic -although i was almost there this morning albeit with a none reduced picture.i think 50 year old technology suits me better

[Richard Fridd]

thanks Alan for the info in the edited post.as it happens e mail has got there first!  richardfridd1@hotmail.com .meanwhile back in the real world of nuts,bolts and dirty hands i have now fitted the new front bumper which looks rather smart with matching overiders.strangely the RH overider had previously been fitted [longterm looking at the marks/difference in wear to plating] on the left and the LH on the right. i assume this is not correct as this meant them pointing outwards rather than straight ahead as they are now.also all brackets were different and overider fasteners different[one with stud/one with thread to accept bolt]so i have had an enjoyable day painting brackets and parts obscured by the old bumper[which is now surplus to requirements if anyone is desperate!] and fitting new nuts and bolts left over from my fulvia spare stock.also a new voltage regulator arrived at the electricians workshop but was deemed to be faulty so another one is on its way i am told.best regards richard

[Richard Fridd]

 the regulator enquiries made by the SE auto electricians have not yet resulted in a regulator arriving whch is fit for purpose.the one which did arrive was of 'home made'appearance! and also did not function!!however a call to omicron sent me in the right direction and as it turned out SE auto happened to  have the omicron recommended  lucas equivelent regulator[25 A/12V] in stock.a test with the components working together proved a success i am told so i will refit to the car tomorrow.thanks to omicron and SE autos maidstone.best regards richard

[Richard Fridd]

dynamo now refitted with the new regulator which reqd.different wiring.the fitting/removal process has become easier with familiarity[aligning the lug on the dynamo with the hole in the cradle is essential otherwise the cradle 'strap' will not fit and drivebelt alighnment will be incorrect too].still a few hours work including solving the wiring puzzle.i still need to know where to fit the 'starter motor cut out relay'wire.i assume this relay prevents starter operation once the engine is running and charging.i am using the original ign.switch with new key as it now operates the starter as it should in the 180 degree position so i suppose the cut out relay/disconnected wiring was causing the previous  odd situation.in the course of todays work i also found wires local to the fusebox pinched between the fuse box and engine bay structure so i have sorted that as well.also the battery iscolator switch has made todays work a lot easier and safer to complete.so latest costs 61 quid including electrical testing at SE autos.best regards richard

[DavidLaver]

Any idea how many hours so far?   Each write up is quite some list.

David

[Richard Fridd]

hours consumed:throttle mech.4,filter/plugs 2,batterytray 1,seat runners 1,battery/cables/switch 8,charging circuit/start engine/fuel filter bowl repair 6,remove dynamo 2,locks/keys 4,front bumper 8,refit dynamo/reg/rewire to suit 6.so around 42 hours spent thus far on some basic but worthwhile jobs!richard

[Richard Fridd]

please add 8hrs/zero costs to that!todays time was invested in removing/ stripping /repairing/refitting the parking brake handlever.the ratchet mechanism was not providing a positive action so i have built up the internal main lever face with brazing spelter which seems to have compensated for wear on the face and elsewhere.split pins now replaced along with the main lever spindle.the operation of the ratchet will be monitored for further potential wear.also i have replaced the throttle return spring with one that works as the existing one fouled the carb linkage.the top of the engine  has responded well to cleaning.black crackle rocker covers/inlet manifold etc now look rather smarter than yesterday.also replaced some corroded electrical terminals and tested the horns which seem to be working at present!richard

[LanciAlan]

I can't see any of your pics ....

[Richard Fridd]

technical support chap will arrive soon i hope[but i bet he cant fix old cars!]

[Richard Fridd]

coolant now replaced in advance of lower ambient values and engine run briefly to circulate.i have had to refix the cold start control lever which is situated below the dashboard and have fitted a  spring on the carb end to ensure a positive return rather than rely upon the rigid cable.so i now have improved control of carburetor for starting which prevents wetting the plugs etc.also i have now insulated the bare terminals [with 'shrinksleeve'] at the distributor end of the HT leads to prevent 'crossfire'

[LanciAlan]

Did you do anything about the central terminal/brush of the distributor cap? I think there was a spring missing from beneath it - I had just jammed a bit of wire in there in my efforts to get it started after 2 years ....