flaminia

[Richard Fridd]

I am trying to replace an inlet valve spring in situ. Does anyone know if there are special tools for this job, or has anyone had success with tools generally available. I have borrowed a tool, and have noticed that a stud is preventing full compression when tried in my first choice of direction and looking at the other springs, could be difficult with adjacent valvegear obstructing progress. I expect one of those impressive Lancia workshop wall racks containing special tools has something for these 'little jobs'. One tool I had in mind was the one which grips the base end of the spring and compresses the top. Looks simple enough! In the meantime I am using the tool pictured, which doesn't compress sufficiently to fit the collets. The valve seems to be closed and exposing the same length of stem as another closed valve. Hopefully the spring coils touching are not the limiting factor, so I will try a used spring from my spare engine and also see if I can measure compressed lengths in a vice. Free length matches spec in the service manual, which also mentions inner valve springs. I have one engine with, and one without inner valve springs. Can anyone confirm if some engines had double springs or if some had single, perhaps stronger springs? (I have used a handy magnet to pull the stem up)

[lancialulu]

I have heard feeding string into the plug hole and bringing the piston up to tdc keeping the valve in position…..

[Richard Fridd]

That sounds like a good idea lancialulu, compressed air seems popular as well. It does feel like the valve is coming to a positive 'stop', and rotates freely, without any noticable lengthwise movement. So hopefully fully seated and not bent. Also the temporary silver soldered threaded addition is a 'belt and braces', incase of something 'pinging off'. I have also covered any holes/ oilways with rag incase anything 'pinging off', achieves a 'hole in one'. That telescopic magnet does have limits when fishing out small parts, but has saved the day previously. Richard

[SanRemo78]

I have heard feeding string into the plug hole and bringing the piston up to tdc keeping the valve in position…..

Or nylon rope!

[Richard Fridd]

I have now removed number 5 inlet valve springs, inner and outer, from the spare engine. Looking at the top collars, one from each engine, one accomodates an inner spring and one doesn't. I must now fabricate a bracket to keep the spring compression tool as straight as possible  onto the valve stem. The tool worked  very well for spring removal, but needs to be more accurate to avoid the slight binding when refitting springs, a problem which can be seen more clearly when working on the spare engine, out of the car. Richard

[DavidLaver]

Great to have a spare engine. 

You're like an astronaut practising a repair in a swimming pool before The Mission.

[Richard Fridd]

Great to have a spare engine. 

You're like an astronaut practising a repair in a swimming pool before The Mission.

         

Now you mention it, I can see the similarity in the seven to one ratio of preparation time required for moon walks and my 'preparation time' to replace my valve spring. However, I have now made a bracket (prototype mark 1) to use with the spring compressor tool and available adjacent engine studs. Richard

[Richard Fridd]

The bracket is now fitted to the spare engine with some extra 'bolt together to allow adjustment' metalwork and actually fuctions as planned. An extra lever is required for full compression, a lever which will not fit in the engine compartment, so different lever required for next session. With things disassembled I can see that the two types of top collars have differing external shapes as well as differing grooves on their undersides. Also looking through the spare engine plug hole gives a view of the valve/ piston crown. No clever internal camera here, so only torchlight. Not so easy with engine in the car though.

[Jaydub]

Hi Richard
would this valve spring compressor tool do the job? If so I could loan it to you if you want to try it. I am based in Northampton.

[Richard Fridd]

Thank you very much for your kind offer John. Looks very useful. I will try my existing tool for the number 5 spring in the car, and if it works, and the valve/ piston proves still to be OK, I will have to decide whether or not to replace other springs, in which case I should be able to find the tool which you have suggested, locally. Thanks again for your idea. Richard

[lancialulu]

Richard

How are you stopping the valve from dropping into the cylinder?

[Richard Fridd]

With the piston at TDC, the valve rests on the crown. Also the valve stem seems to have a ring which prevents downward movement beyond the top of the guide. My telescopic magnet pulls the stem up, and by doing so, gives an indication of the stem running freely (or not). Worked when replacing the spring on the spare engine. Photo is that of the valve through the plug hole, not that clear I know. Richard

[Richard Fridd]

Not sure if the 'magnet method' works with the 'universal OHV tool' though. Richard

[Richard Fridd]

Collets now fitted to the engine which is in the car. I have found the associated pushrod is no longer straight, so I must replace that prior to refitting the rockers.

[Richard Fridd]

Replacement pushrod now fitted, and tappets adjusted. I have now run the engine and driven the car again. Richard