flaminia

[lancialulu]

Are those nyloc nuts?

[Richard Fridd]

Yes, existing nyloc nuts refitted at the moment. The insert being an example of 'single use plastic', to use the popular phrase. Also I have found the tappet screws which do not have their locking nuts tightened in the photo, have just enough thread to maintain recommended clearances. Many thanks to Messrs Gee, Trigwell and Ricketts, for
sending pushrods, Colourtune kit and distributor/ shaft, all received this week. Richard

[Mikenoangelo]

Re holding valves up while springs are changed.

I know nothing of Flaminias but had a similar problem when working on my 1925 Salmson which has two overhead camshafts and inclined valves in hemispherical combustion chambers. Going by the photo posted yesterday I think my solution might work for the Flaminia.

I made a hook from 3mm wire which goes through an insert which screws into the plug hole The drilling for the wire is eccentric to the plug bush so that when turned   inwards the hook can go into the combustion chamber as the plug bush is screwed but when turned through 180 degrees projects out from the bush enough to catch under the rim of the valve. A spring on the shank of the rod holds the valve up while the cotters and spring are removed. Clearance for the valve spring compressing tool was tricky but do-able.

The Salmson being of relatively low compression has too much space above the piston crown for the rope trick to work.

Mike Clark

Like this:-

[Richard Fridd]

Thank you Mike, I will work on that idea. Which spring compressor do you find works best? The tool suggested earlier in this thread looks useful, but apart from adjacent valvegear and casting clearances, the space available between the new spring coils, when compressed, is quite limited. Richard

[Mikenoangelo]

I made a lever similar to yours, using the 4 studs which hold the cambox down as the fulcram. Lift the lever to compress the spring and hold it up with a wood block. The Salmson springs although double are not very strong.

Mike Clark

[Richard Fridd]

Not much room for my long lever, so used a jack plus vertical extension from below and attached to my short lever. Richard

[Richard Fridd]

Prompted by the carburettor thread, I have now seen that the manual lists two special tools for valve spring replacement without removing the cylinder heads. Where could these be found as a pattern I wonder? Richard

[Richard Fridd]

Back on the road! Should give another few thousand miles service now. Back in the real world I am happy to chug up the road and around my test route with what hopefully is a slightly weak main circuit mixture. Slight choke activation improves pickup. Not that I would like to return to the sooted plugs situation on a frequent basis. Plugs are now Bosch and air bleeds still enlarged as before. A new carburettor is the advice from both my local experts and also those of Chris O'Connor , if Chris doesn't mind me saying.
Back at base I have used a home made oil pump drive, copied from Dave Gee, to circulate some oil in the spare engine.

[frankxhv773t]

Did you get an answer to your valve supporting tool for valve spring replacement without removing the head? I think something similar was being discussed in an Augusta thread which might work. It was a rod with the end bent at 90 degrees which just fitted through the spark plug hole then the end swung round to hold the valve up from underneath. The rod has some form of sliding clamp outside the cylinder head to stop it all dropping down the bore while you work on the valve spring.

[Richard Fridd]

Nothing so far Frank, but thanks for asking. Just need two spare main jets to experiment with now. Richard

[Richard Fridd]

On the subject of jets, I have run a drill bit through my mains (light finger and thumb pressure only).
Also the choke lever stops now where it should, as I have moved the washer, which was previously on the body side of the lever, thus causing the lever to miss it's stop.
I notice there is a screw in the picture which doesn't seem fully seated.  
Should secure the venturi? Richard

[Richard Fridd]

Just to confirm, the screw does secure the venruri, and acts directly on the casting which has no locating indentation/ hole.
A short test round the block reveals smooth idle, ok 2000 rpm range, but lean feeling transition.  Minimal choke improves things, but this or a richer idle mixture brings me back to the curse of sooty plugs.
Still persevering but Mr O'Connor's carburretor thread will surely hold the answer.
Richard  

[Richard Fridd]

Coincidentally a Colortune arrived in the post today. I would like to try more than one at a time as a comparison between cylinders.
It seems there are several 14mm thread lengths available.
I haven't seen one of the accompanying charts for a long time, maybe this should go on the garage wall. Only a guide I expect, as the engine won't be under any significant load. Richard

[chriswgawne]

I am very interested to hear how useful you find this Richard.

[Richard Fridd]

Incidentally here is a page from the manual. Does anyone know why the accelerator pump injectors  should be modified in this way? Richard