B10*2283

[Niels Jonassen]

When I restored our Aurelia many years ago I simply drilled out the rivets, cleaned and greased the inside and assembled it again with small bolts and nuts. It has worked ever since. Incidentally, the gears are made of mazak and do not last very well. So I made a new set of gears with a hacksaw and a file. It took some time, but it works, albeit being a bit sloppy. It may be a better idea to buy a new set of gears - steel - from Omicron. I did that with one of the boxes. Good luck.

[the.cern]

Niels way is a tried and trusted way, I did the same thing. I had the first set of steel gears made up for the now defunct Aurelia Consortium and they worked well. I think Omicron may well be on the third issue of gears by now!!!

Frank, I love the idea of the squirty lithium grease ... One I will try to remember for future problems!!

                                Andy

[williamcorke]

Thank you Neils and Andy. I think I shall dismantle the notchy 'box. I have a strong suspicion that it will fail in use if left as is and I don't fancy taking the dashboard off again once it's properly assembled. Would be a lot quicker the second time though.

[williamcorke]

Only 18 months since the last post, I'm improving  

Despite the lack of posts, I have been making substantial progress over the past few months. A new loom has been made-up and fitted in situ - a job that was holding up a lot (most) of the rest of the project. I had thought that I'd keep the original loom with some repairs where needed, but in the end it was clear that starting from scratch with the wiring diagram and some nice black braided wire (but with modern spec internals) bought from the excellent https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ was going to be easier as well as safer in the long run.

I'm currently working on the transmission and brakes and have a question that I'm hoping someone here will be able to help with, relating to the the three rubber 'spider' couplings from the propshaft.

Two of these (on the car since the early '60s when it was taken off the road) are the same as the modern replacements but the third has aluminium dowels in each of the lobes' holes (see attached photos).

I guess that these dowels would have the effect of stiffening the couplings, reducing driveline 'shunt'. Does anyone have another explanation? Have any of you seen this before and could it be 'factory'? The stiffened spider was at the engine/flywheel end of the propshaft, where torque effects would (I suppose) be greatest.

[lancianut666]

Looking at your picture the modded coupling looks more likely to fail...
Clarkey

[williamcorke]

Looking at your picture the modded coupling looks more likely to fail...
Clarkey

Interesting observation - do you mean because of the cracks showing on the reinforced coupling? It seems as if this one might be older than the other two, which show less signs of age in their surface condition.

[GG]

Just a guess here.... that the original ones had the holes to allow a bit of deformation under extreme conditions. Someone then thought to "tighten" up the response, and came up with the idea of the plugs (not a bad idea, but is it really necessary?). You can get new spiders, probably not a bad thing. But to answer your question directly, not seen this before - although there may be others who are familiar with this mod. Seems a bit overkill for the Aurelia drivetrain - I'd want the cush.

[JohnMillham]

I did that back in the 1960s, when I had a couple of Aurelias, but I used corks. It successfully took up the drive more smoothly and seemed to work OK. I remember that Harry approved.
Regards, John

[williamcorke]

2 questions arising from work this weekend (during which headlining was fitted and door seal fitting started - what a pig of a job that is).

1.
Can anyone tell me what kind of bush should go around the steering column where it goes through the bulkhead? There is a gap between the bulkhead and the reinforcing plate bolted to the engine bay side through which the steering column goes, which looks as if it might seat a (perhaps) felt bush/seal.

What should be there?
Are they available?

I can make something up but a better idea of what I'm replacing / replicating would be helpful.

2.
How is the brake pipe from reservoir to m/c routed? Anyone got an original B10 (or B21) they could get this info from (photo of same)? Does the pipe go through the lower, bigger holes in the rear engine mount bracket?

Thanks in advance.

[Sliding Pillar]

William, some photos for you, the bush around the steering column appears to be felt.
The photos of the brake lines are from a B21, which rather fortunately from the point of view of taking photos, does not have the engine in at the moment.
Hope these of of help.
Ade.

[williamcorke]

Thanks Ade, exactly what I needed.

[williamcorke]

Visited an even earlier B10 than mine this afternoon - some of you will know the car I'm sure.

Photos below show the same 90 degree banjo arrangement on this car as on the B21 that Ade kindly send pic's of. The B10 photos also show how the pipe is routed under the wiring cover (which explains the hole on the reservoir-side of the this cover.

So, can anyone help me to find a banjo of the correct type - that is to say, with a female M14, 1.5mm pitch union for the pipe to the M/C?

[simonandjuliet]

I bought some on eBay recently -but not this size - but lots available - try this for a complete set

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbo-Banjo-Bolt-Kit-M14-x-1-5mm-to-6AN-Turbo-Coolant-Garrett-GT28R-GT28R-GT30R/253206227847?epid=0&hash=item3af4446b87:g:MYIAAOSw44BYl-ae

[williamcorke]

Thanks Simon. I did quite a lot of google/ebay etc. searching, but can't find any fitting in this size with a female fitting. The one in your link is male (as you know). Still drawing a blank and hoping someone on the forum might have the right part on a shelf somewhere...

[williamcorke]

Brake question.

I was missing two of the 'snail' cam brake shoe adjusters but have (thank you Chris G) been supplied with two backplates complete with with snail assemblies.

However. it is very hard to see where the pins that go through nut and shaft of the snail bolt are situated. I tried to drill one out. Thought I had done so... tried to unscrew the nut and... snapped the end of the bolt where it is weakened by the pin hole.

Does anyone have any experience of this job or bright ideas as to how I can remove two of the remaining 3 assemblies without damaging them?

Thanks in advance