New Zagato

[davidwheeler]

Just looked up Michael Frostick.   First series mirrors on the rear of the wing as in Chris' pic, just below the crease and in line with the rear of the bonnet so far as I can tell.  Second series on the door at the rear of the quarter light and looking like mine (picture one of vintagecarparts).  So, since my car is a second series, this pedantic old bugger will now retire from this thread.

[lancialulu]

These mirrors need to be quite close to the windscreen, about level with the rear of the bonnet. See photo below taken last Sunday at Chelsea Autolegends. My car has two such mirrors, which is unusual (no you can’t have one, sorry!) and I think this is because my RHD car was first owned by a Brit in the military in Germany, where he clearly needed to augment the rear view on the left.

Colin

my 1600 sport is like Colin's re mirror poition as x2. the second one gives marginal assistance when on zee continent, but half the mirror is lost by the windscreen rubber and you have to carefully position the wiper blade on passenger side to get anything useful. it takes me c200 miles to get into using them effectively when driving on the wrong side of the road. btw as 1600 it is S2 but the previous owner liked S1 gutter and front grill, and I liked Hf suspension so it can wear what ever it likes as a non standard car....

[fay66]

Hi Brian,

Being an S1.5 Sport I think the set up is the same as an S2 Fulvia - there's the stalk with the little switch that operates the clunky relay - and that stalk operates side and dipped. The second stalk has a button on the end for dipped main beam - thats the one that has failed. The actual arm / button looks like the one for the washwipers spray.
Cheers
Chris

Thanks Chris,
sorry I can't help then, from what I've heard from other owners it's not a particularly reliable set up.
I think it's also been the subject of much discussion on here previously.
Brian
8227

[nistri]

Sudden malfunction of the S1.5/S2 main lights may be caused by a dodgy electromagnetic switch (or its poor connections). The switch (a large brown plastic casing) can be seen after opening the fusebox on the right hand side surrounded by a plethora of spaghetti-like wires. Andrea

[kernow]

Thanks Nistri, Had a play and the relay appears to working ok for the lights - nice and noisy. I have sidelights and mainbeam, no dipped. With the lights off, I have no flashed main beam from the end of the stalk, but with sidelights on I have main beam flash. Earth? Stalk switch? The relay I have has no cover could have been getting covered in dust for years.

While we're in this area so to speak - anyone know what this switch does?

[Zagato]

I think its that rheostat for dimming or brightening the dash lights

[Richard Fridd]

That switch controls the rear heated screen on my s2 Sedan.All of my Fulvia dimming rheostat controls  have been on the instrument panel and mirror  the plated  odeometer reset control regardless of series.Also I have a cigar lighter in place of your LH thumbscrew. richard.

[kernow]

I have a dimmer close to the dials - thought this might be for a heated rear screen only my car has no heated rear screen?

Chris

[Richard Fridd]

So what happens when the swittch is operated?Is it a "spare" switch or is it connected to the wiring loom I wonder?

[stuwilson128]

I have a dimmer close to the dials - thought this might be for a heated rear screen only my car has no heated rear screen?

Chris

My S2 coupe has two switches which don't do anything.  One is next to the heater controls and the other is next to the vents, like in your photo. 

While stripping the car out for restoration, I came to the assumption that the switch next to the heater controls, which only has one position, is for the heated rear window (the window has the wires coming from it, but the cables to the switch had been removed).  I am guessing that the switch next to the vents is for a fan override.  My reasoning for this is that in my car, there is an extra toggle switch fitted nearby and it is not the kind which would have been on the car when new.  From memory, the switch next to the vents on my car has two positions.  This would equate to two fan speeds.  If anybody knows anything, I would appreciate other suggestions!

[Scott]

In my S2 coupé the pull out knob in the right of the air vent operates a radiator fan override i.e. on a hot day in stop start traffic you can pull this out to just keep the fan going constantly.
On the left I have a toggle switch that controls the up-down movement of the radio aerial. Whether this is 'original fitment' I can't say. It certainly looks well integrated but could have been fitted by a past owner.

Interestingly in the Fulvia Instruction Book there are no specific pull out buttons or toggle switches illustrated. These areas just have 'screw heads' similar to the access panel to the fuse box beneath. So whether these were originally blanks and a user could specify options ... ?

[nistri]

Problems with head lights: of course there might be a poor contact inside the stalk switch which is a fragile item with moving sliding contacts which can be dirty/worn/damaged. Usually this problem is manifested as no operation in a particular switch position. However, if the lights suddenly go off and come back by switching them on/off a few times, it is likely due to a faulty electromagnetic switch, not the relays. If the lights come off when the car is driven over a pothole, there is bad earth connection at the steering column and the ring around the switch must be fully tightened.

The dashboard switch near the airvent is for the rear demister, an optional at the time. The switch below it is for auxiliary fog lamps (again an optional). These items were standard on the Montecarlo version of the coupe. Andrea  

[davidwheeler]

When I brought my S2 back to life after a long hibernation I had to spend a lot of time stripping and cleaning the stalk switches.  It all comes apart quite easily and the operation is pretty well self explanatory but take care and beware of losing small springs.  Photos of the switches before and after dismantling are a useful backup.  I also had to take out and clean all the fuses and the spade connectors in particular - these can give intermittent connections and all the multiplug connectors of which there are many.  A spray of switch cleaner is helpful for these followed by unplugging and plugging several times.  The headlight filaments are all on separate fuses so if both are off it suggests something proximal to the fuse box such as the switch or plugs or even the relay.  Take your test meter (less than £10 from Maplins) and trace all the circuits.  The handbook has wiring diagrams but be sure to choose the correct one as there are many detail differences.  The relays were in their boxes and worked fine once they were properly connected in.  Also, the plugs onto the back of the headlight bulbs were dirty.  It all took the best part of a week but has been worth it. 

[kernow]

Thanks guys,

I'll be having a go at the switches soon. Electrics have never been my strong point so I'll take it slow and easy. In the mean time spent a Sunday afternoon under the car fitting a new rear silencer and all new exhaust hangers. The exhaust was really low in the middle, but is better now. All the hangers had split and the exhaust as all skewed. Also, new silicone hoses have arrived so that's the next job - and finding wing mirrors.

Sill haven't worked out what the switch is for - I'm guessing for the heated rear screen that isn't a heated screen...

Cheers

Chris

[davidwheeler]

The switch is actually there to match the one on the other side.  You may use it for what you wish!