Technical information only

[davidwheeler]

List of Lancia clours from Paul Mayo

[lancialulu]

transferred from another thread

I believe the blue seal is sometimes an o ring in some se4vice kits.

[my69S1]

I found these if anyone is looking to replace their headlight bucket grommets.  They are a perfect fit and the price is right.

http://www.britishwiring.com/product-p/c51409.htm

[LCR1967]

Another site nearer to home that is good for bits and bobs

https://www.oldtimerbedarf.de/gummi

[davidwheeler]

http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9873.735    for information on the BOOT LOCK

[davidwheeler]

*
Posts: 379
Fulvia valve timing
by
00364 Andrea+Nistri
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Timing the valves of the Fulvia engine is quite complicated and confusing, and it should not undertaken unless one is confident to know what he is doing. Personally I never used the Lancia manual method and always relied on the 2.2 mm method that I learned from Harry Manning. He actually used to sell these bespoke feeler gauges and of course the accuracy of timing depends on how accurate the gauge is. Basically the method relies on the maximum valve lift that is correct at 2.2 mm ONLY for 818.303 engines. This is important.

Assuming the camshafts, rockershafts, etc are all correctly refitted, the tappets screws of all valves must be wound fully inside the tappets. Then adjust valve clearance for inlet and outlet valves of cylinder 1 for maximum lift (2.2 mm) i.e. back of cylinder 1 cam lobes after turning (by hand) both camshafts in such position. Subsequently, turn by hand intake camshaft clockwise and exhaust camshaft anticlockwise until camshaft marks are aligned. If OK so far, there must be no free play for both valves of cylinder 1. Chain can now be fitted (if not done earlier) to both camshafts with its tensioner spring slackened.
Turn the engine until cylinder 1 is at top dead center (0 on the flywheel flange with 1/4 on the bellhousing) and make sure it is indeed at TDC. Easy to make mistakes here: I use a whistle fitted to the plug hole to signal TDC.
Turn again the engine one full revolution very slowly and check that tappet 1 play starts disappearing as flywheel 0 mark approaches. At 0 there should be no free play and as soon as 0 is passed slowly, there should free play for the exhaust 1 tappet. Retension the tensioner, turn the engine and recheck as above.

If these conditions are not attained for example on the intake camshaft, slacken the tensioner, don't shift the camshaft position and after lifting the chain by hand and carefully removing the intake sprocket wheel (and dowel if present), move it one or two teeth clockwise (advance) or anticlockwise (retard) for setting the intake timing correctly and refit it loose. Retension the tensioner and see if timing is now correct after turning the engine.
The procedure is essentially the same for the exhaust camshafts. If OK, set all valve clearances as per book (0.15 inlet, 0.25 outlet)

If the timing is correct, sprocket bolts can be torqued up and blocked with their locking tabs. It is very important to note that although working with cylinder 1, the distributor must be fitted with rotor firing cylinder 4.

The final check for everything done properly is:
rotor arm firing cylinder 4, timing marks aligned with marks on the camshaft front supports,
piston number 4 at TDC, flywheel zero aligned with 1/4 mark on the bellhousing, free play on inlet and outlet valves of cylinder 4.
I hope this helps. With Harry's method we  never had any problems for a large number of 303 engines over nearly 40 years, Andrea

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Andrea Nistri

[davidwheeler]

Further details of master cylinder rebuild here   http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12480.15 

[davidwheeler]

Second series wiring diagrams from the Coupe/Sport Instruction book.  I don't know why the key for Coupe s printed twise but there is is...

[nthomas1]

Here is the wiring diagram for the RHD Series 3 Coupe - extracted from the Series 3 Owner's Handbook, second edition.

[davidwheeler]

From Beckerman67

[Beckerman67]

 Fulvia S2 Colour Wiring Diagram

[Keithver]

During my restoration I made a list of bolts, nuts, washers etc that I needed to buy. It is not a complete list - please use it for guidance.
It is sorted in TAV number for easy reference

[Keithver]

I have tried to make a comprehensive colour chart for Fulvias - this is what I was able to find out.
It includes colours for the different series with colour chip and a picture of the car in the colour, Including the paint codes

[Keithver]

I have taken the Torque settings out of the Tech Data, for my series 2, and tried to give better descriptions. I have also sorted them by TAV

[julian67]

Hi

I bought an 18mm lhd brake master cylinder from pieces-fulvia. Then bought an adaptor / pushrod (140mm) from Omicron.

When my mechanic attempted to bleed the front brakes, he discovered 4/5 mmFREE PLAY on the brake pedal before connecting with the master cylinder. To eliminate this FREE PLAY, he said the pushrod needs to be close to 150mm.

Omicron said they never had a problem with their 140mm pushrod, fitted to lhd 18mm master cylinders and that it could be another problem!

1) Would anyone know what else could be the problem.

2) How much FREE PLAY should there be when a lhd master cylinder & apaptor plate / pushrod is fitted?

3) Can the brake pedal be adjusted?

Many thanks