South London Sport

[fay66]

What a shame that door skin fell off in my hand?   

No...how LUCKY.  Better that than when on the road. 

It also lets me see how to remove the door card which will help when it comes to removing the other door card which I'm starting to think necessary to get the other door open.

David

Ever the optimist David ! Glasses half full and all that, rather than half empty, looks like you did well to get it out of there with no incidents. Well done and keep up the good work.

Brian
8227

[DavidLaver]

Checked the door skin the other day and its single curvature so might be easier to start again than deal with the splits.  The alternatives are to flatten and weld, flatten and flush rivet on new edges, grind off the lip and stick it on.

David

[Parisien]

David...am thoroughly enjoying your missives from S London, keep 'em coming and continue to fascinate the rest of the forum with your tenacity and never say die attitude...respect!


P

[DavidLaver]

At some point it will get put to one side and other stuff in the queue progressed.  However the "stabilise the patient" phase has a long way to go and I'm also keen to work out quite what I've got and what might be a sensible plan for when I get to it "properly".

David

[DavidLaver]

Some discussion as to colour:

http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6286.msg44395#new

[DavidLaver]

I got the fuel tank out.  All the bolts needed drilling but that done it came easily.

On one corner the seam has split with rust but it doesn't look far enough to leak.  Its an easy repair beyond the obvious risks associated with a fuel tank.

With the tank out the way I was able to fiddle the fuel cap end of the filler pipe out of its housing but as yet I can't get the cap itself off.  It unscrews but won't release.  Should the brass button in the middle of the cap stay still as I turn it?  Its a lovely thing so as yet no violence or tools have been used.  With the cap still on it won't pass through the boot floor.  Maybe it will go through the other way.

The rear structure is now clear, and rusted as it is almost a sectional model.  The valance wraps round the steel as it might on a door skin.  I've not look close enough to see if it has reacted as the main interest has been how little steel is there and what shape the remainder should be in.

David

[SanRemo78]

I've had the ally tanks on the Stratos welded a couple of times now, never had any adverse effects from sparks as we've vented them by pumping a lot of exhaust gas through first. Connect a pipe to the end of your exhaust and put it into the tank and run it for 15 minutes! That'll eliminate any vapours.
Guy

[fay66]

I've had the ally tanks on the Stratos welded a couple of times now, never had any adverse effects from sparks as we've vented them by pumping a lot of exhaust gas through first. Connect a pipe to the end of your exhaust and put it into the tank and run it for 15 minutes! That'll eliminate any vapours.
Guy

Thanks Guy,
Great tip for anyone messing about with the tank.
Brian
8227

[DavidLaver]

The filler pipe came out last night.  The hole in the boot floor was made bigger by grabbing the edge with pliers and ripping.  There are times when all that rust is a help...

Petrol cap now off.  The sealing rubber had stuck the lid to the pipe.  WD40 softened it some and some split away on the pipe.  I scraped with a knife.  I like the Italian text on the cap.

David

[DavidLaver]

Been busy of a warm evening and almost got all the floors in primer - but tonight I ran out.  However the other end of the job had had long enough to start on the gloss.  I can't wait to see it in the light...

The primer is water based and not nice to apply but has passed the "impossible to get off your arm where you leant on it" test.  The second coat is always a lot easier but still hard going.  Gloss is oil based and a goes on a treat.

David

[simonandjuliet]

What kind of primer are you using ? Does it have  a rust inhibitor/neutraliser in it ? I cannot get any decent waterbased metal paints here, so interested to know

Any pictures ?

[Tim Ray]

Hello Simon
When I resprayed my Fulvia Coupé I bought all my materials from the UK because of cost (some 30% cheaper) and nobody would supply me with solvent based paint.
One French company was very helpful and correctly identified a Dupont code for the colour coat by using a spectrometer and feeding the info. into their Dupont database. The colour match was excellent. I was sorry that I couldn't use them.
Their name is Flauraud and I believe they have several branches in France. See www.flauraud.com
I ended up buying all my consumables from them.
Tim

[simonandjuliet]

Thanks Tim

I must admit that I buy it all in the UK as well. There is a reluctance to deal with non-professionals here as you know, so you can buy small quantities of poor quality product .....

Will follow up the Flauraud suggestion though, especially if can post it all.

[DavidLaver]

Well - no surprise but painting in the dark is not a good idea...  Quite a bit needed to be redone.  Also at the end of the session I had painted the "quick and easy" rear foot wells (mostly holes) to see a bit more progress the next morning but that then prevented me getting in the car to do the back seat until it had fully hardened: a couple of extra days on the elapsed time.

I was proper grumpy thinking the weather had turned and it would soon be the kids holidays and I wouldn't get time and it would end up being left just as primer but I found a couple of weather windows and have a coat of gloss right over.  I'd like a second coat but it no longer worries me being left.

The primer:

http://dulux.trade-decorating.co.uk/products/info/dulux_trade_metalshield_quick_drying_metal_primer.jsp

The first time I used it was on aluminium and it worked a treat.  The data sheet says its zinc phosphate in acrylic so it should do the electrolytic thing to prevent rust.  I applied it over two coats of Fertan rust converter.

http://www.fertan.co.uk/Item-Fertan%20rust%20converter.htm

The tip from Fertan (great helpline) I hadn't followed (too late by the time I called) was to panel wipe (the worry being the wire brush had embedded grease in the pores).   The tip I DID follow was to spray the surface to reactivate in case it had dried too quick in the heat (a couple of spots) and then to wash the surface before primer.  I used plain water and a dishcloth.

The gloss is Dulux trade interior.  Their helpline is excellent as well.  I'd previously used the exterior grade on metal but their advice was that I don't need all the noxious chemicals that exterior wood benefits from and would prefer scratch resistance to flexibility.  I didn't use their Metalshield gloss as I can't get it colour matched.  Reading the info in the link below it says it CAN be tinted...it also says only four standard colours where I have a card with about thirty.  NEXT time eh?

Either of these:

http://dulux.trade-decorating.co.uk/products/info/dulux_trade_metalshield_gloss_finish.jsp
http://dulux.trade-decorating.co.uk/products/info/dulux_trade_high_gloss.jsp

This is ok but not as hard:

http://dulux.trade-decorating.co.uk/products/info/dulux_trade_weathershield_exterior_high_gloss.jsp

Anther primer I like is Bilt Hamber Electrox:

http://www.bilthamber.com/electrox

Solvent based but quick drying and the brush can be left in water for weeks if working "little and often".  I had intended to use this over fresh brushed steel but I didn't get what I thought was enough clean to make a start before the first bit went orange again.  At the time I thought I couldn't get the benefit of electrox over Fertan but I now know that not to be true.  I've used Dulux over Electrox and that works well as well.

Just to add some more confusion to the options Dulux also do solvent based Zinc Phosphate primer for steel of which I have no experience:

http://dulux.trade-decorating.co.uk/products/info/dulux_trade_metalshield_zinc_phosphate_primer.jsp

For clean up they mention Hammerite thinners which is a clue

Next time?  I like the Fertan, a lovely smell as much as anything.  I'm hard pressed to choose between the quick drying Dulux primer and the Bilt Hamber electrox.  Dulux goes on a bit better, dries smoother, water based cleanup, can buy it round the corner.  Electrox on price and all the magazine test reviews but not against Dulux who have my absolute trust anyway.  Can't go wrong with either.  For a top coat I might try the Dulux Metalshield but would phone them first to understand the benefits over the interior gloss.

I have photos on the PC and have made a start on the edit but will always prioritise "progress" over "report".  At least I'm not making you wait for Viva   On that front first article submitted and second in progress.
 
David
  

[DavidLaver]

Some photos.