Everyday Appia

[JohnMillham]

" but the dynamo was so rusty, it got a coat of paint !!" Make sure it's earthed well, or it won't work.
Regards, John

[simonandjuliet]

Thanks John, I removed the dynamo again and gave the brackets an extra sand where they bolt to the engine - hopefully that will be enough ....

We are busy in the winery at the moment, racking, aerating, delestage (removing the juice and returning to the tank), pressing the carignan and settling the lees , all of which require time and a lot of cleaning afterwards !

However, I did get a few minutes this afternoon. New bits had arrived so I replaced the gaskets , accelerator pump membranes and copper washers on the carb, fitted a new (new) pump and tested everything. All well to begin with - no leaks anywhere.

The new pump (28 euros on eBay) fits very nicely and doesn't look too modern. The banjos fit without mods and it takes the increased pressure from the electric pump. I found a carb kit on a French website dedicated to French classics (Melun Retro) and this was advertised as fitting Citroen Tractions. The only bits you cannot use are the float valve (1.7 not 1.5) and the jet that fits the top of the emulsion tube (135 instead of 180 if I recall), but at 23 euros I wasn't complaining

Once it was all fitted I pressed the key, engine turned once, then nothing......

A bit of searching identified the switch as the problem , so I dismantled that and saw the problem. The key in push-mode presses a disk that makes the connection to the solenoid, unfortunately the brass connector had snapped ( see picture). I had a spare switch and you can just replace the rear section thus keeping the same key. I took another unit apart to see if a first series switch would be interchangeable and I suspect it would as well. I am sure I can repair the broken plate, but that can be done another day

Refitted a new speedo (Subito) connected up the bulbs and dynamo wire

Finally, pressed the key and it all worked, disconnected the electric pump to check the mechanical and that seems OK , so at last I can move onto the cooling system ......

[DavidLaver]

 Understatement of the year:  "I did get a few minutes this afternoon".

[lancianut666]

We all know time is very elastic when it comes to working on Lancias. So the impression I'm getting is the mechanical pumps if maintained are fine and an electric one creates more work but is useful for priming the system. At least it is not the new petrol.
Clarkey

[simonandjuliet]

Having now replaced everything that touches petrol with new stuff. The pipes, pumps, gaskets etc etc , theoretically , I could now run SP 95-E 10 petrol.

However, I do not plan on risking it - SP 95 plus additive for me

[simonandjuliet]

The cats were away this afternoon, so the mouse got the afternoon to play ....

First up was stripping and unseizing the heater control valve. Corroded solid so took some dismantling. New rubber seals are available from the Appia Consortium, so as long as nothing else is broken, they are repairable.

Next was dismantling the shutters and stripping the rad. I am not aiming to take the header and bottom tanks off, just give it a good flush, paint and refit. It may be OK, so let's see. The shutters have cleaned up nicely and will work again (photos next time)

Also stripped and repainted the heater air-intake system, quite an impressive series of large pipes and steel ducts. A fan is fitted in line and there is a cable operated butterfly valve at the front

The fan was very noisy and had to be removed. A good spray with WD 40 was enough to lubricate the bronze bushes, but the insulation around both the + and - had rotted so new was made using the rigid plastic insulation from spade connectors. The fan is mounted on 3 rubber blades that have a groove on one end that fits onto lugs on the fan body and 6 rivets (2 each blade) that locate it inside the steel airduct. Simple !

The butterfly valve was stiff as well, so it is just like a carb , 2 screws through the shaft holding it in place, once they are removed you can withdraw the shaft and clean everything

All sanded, degreased and painted ready to refit. The rubber cuff was cleaned in swarfega and will be given a final clean with rubber and vinyl cleaner before refitting - I find it gives the rubber a bit more elasticity again

ps sorry for the recent reduction in photo quality but I have broken my camera again and have to use my iPhone .....

[simonandjuliet]

Couple of hours this afternoon after cleaning barrels and saying goodbye to my Moto Guzzi LeMans after 20 odd years of ownership. Mixed emotions .....

The rad was re-assembled after cleaning , painting and flushing. A small job was remaking the rubber bump-stops on the shutters. I could not find anything here so used some 8mm foam rubber "rod" that I pulled through the holes and then trimmed. Advantage to this is that it is very supple and provides a nice soft "seat"

The "christmas tree" that connects all the water pipes at the bottom of the radiator looked a bit tatty once I had cleaned it, so I filled the worst corrosion on the inside with plastic metal and made a new gasket. It is a bit of a faff fitting it all. There is not a lot of room for 3 pipes and their jubilee clips and there was no way I was going to try undoing the banjo bolt to spread them out - all too delicate ! The new pipes I bought are a bit on the thick side which didn't help, so I will have to look out for some thin walled stuff for the other cars.

I replaced all the pipes, fitted them to the "christmas tree" , threaded them through the engine bay  before dropping in the rad (remember to put the bolt in otherwise it gets too tight for space) . Careful positioning so as not to risk damaging said "christmas tree". Everything in repose and carefully tightened, fill up with water and press the key .......

One small seep which was easily rectified. Got her nice and warm and adjusted the slow running. Still smoking a bit , but that isn't a surprise since she has only run for 10 mins since the rebuild. So, now she goes I can concentrate on the stopping !

Couple of other bits. Fan fitted into its housing , photo shows the rubber blocks in place. Then the heater intake has been fitted and air filter put in place

ps the dynamo appears to be charging. The light stayed on for a couple of minutes following initial connecting up and now goes out each time she starts, suggesting the brushes have bedded in again

[DavidLaver]

Interesting stuff.  In particular (for me...) all the heater ducts.

Is that the first start up?  You make it sound routine.

"Thin" and "thick" wall water pipe is new to me.

David

[frankxhv773t]

All so impressive!

Once this is finished when are you going to publish the Appia Haynes manual?

Frank

[simonandjuliet]

David, the pipe wall thickness is an issue. The original pipes are very thin, allowing them to squeeze onto the "christmas tree" (with "jubilee" clip) and leave room for the adjacent pipes with their "jubilee" clips. The modern (thicker) pipe is all 'un peu juste'

Currently playing with radiator grill fitting , will post some pics when I have a solution ......

In the mean time, any idea as to what these are - I should know - I bought some Appia bits and they were included ?

[the.cern]

I have discovered what I call thin wall rubber tubing at Vintage Supplies. Whether or not it is suitable for use as radiator hose, ie. under pressure, I do not know. Below is the link for information.

I bought some of this to use as sleeving for the front light wiring under the front wings of the B20.

http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/733-container-black-rubber-tubing.

                                          Andy

[DavidLaver]

Good find!!

Is it under pressure in an Appia?

[stanley sweet]

Is there any way of extending the tubing on the banjos to give you more room to use thicker pipes?

[the.cern]

I just assumed so. It has a standard type cap, I think they normally operate at between 3 and 7psi.

                                             Andy

[the.cern]

Or ........ is it possible to twist the banjos relative to each other so that the hoses may pass either side of the bottom hose, thus removing the conflict ?  Maybe there is not a suitable route for the hoses if you do that!!

                                Andy