Story so far series 1 resto

[lancianut666]

Hi
it feels like there is no compression but it cranks a lot faster with the plugs out so there is some. I know nothing about the engine and I am assuming it was working OK when last ran by the colour of the old plugs. I am leaning towards some or nearly all the valves not seating properly as the engine has not ran allegedly for 40 years. I was thinking along the lines of cranking it over with the plugs out and some thin oil in the bores but the starter seems a bit feeble so I don't want to burn it out. It would be nice to get the engine running to see how good or bad it is. it will be coming out again anyway when I do the bodywork and spraywork. I will get a compression tester on the job and take it from there.
clarkey

[simonandjuliet]

Did you take the engine to pieces, I can't remember? If you did and reset the valve timing, maybe it is out. When I did mine, even with the tappets backed right off, the cam moved after it had been set because of the pressure from the valve springs. You have to block it once it is set

However, if you haven't touched that and it ran before, it can't be valve timing. Maybe first principles - rocker covers off, see which cyl has both valves closed (ie firing) and see which lead the rotor arm is pointing to and go from there. I do a full cycle to check each firing stroke and corresponding lead

With the rockers off you can also see if any valves are stuck .....

If that's OK and there is a spark, back to petrol and compressions

[lancianut666]

Hi Simon
I didn't dismantle the engine apart from taking the distributor off and cleaning it and replacing it. might have a look there first but I did a quick check with the covers off and when no 4 valves are both shut (ie you can wiggle the rocker arm) the rotor arm was pointing at no 4 spark plug lead.
Clarkey

[fay66]

If it won't 'run' on Bradex then I don't think there can be any compression.

For a couple of years I made the mistake of laying up my old Frogeye Sprite without starting it for the whole winter. I then used to resurrect it with Bradex. Bradex ignites on compression I think, and the old A Series always used to merrily run with that strange popping sound until you stopped squirting.

It sounds like your timing is totally out, ie valves open on the compression stroke, otherwise the Bradex should fire the engine even in the total absence of fuel?

Perhaps you need to try the Australian version of the Bradex, I kid you not it's called 'START YOU orphan' perhaps it will frighten it into starting.
joking aside, good luck with sorting the problem, but I'd agree with Neil, if it won't start with Bradex then there's something that is not right, and it just isn't going to start without further investigation to pin the problem down, very disappointing 

Brian
8227

[mikeC]

Do you have room to try tow starting it? I have found a short tow can produce instant results after extended attempts with the starter have failed miserably...

[lancianut666]

I think I will try cranking it over with the plugs out a bit more and then possibly a tow start if that fails. Problem with the tow start is a lack of an experienced wheel man in the other vehicle my youngest would be up for it but I could see a calamity!!! I might have to rope Simon in on it when he comes over. There is a big empty car park behind the unit so no problems with space.
Clarkey

[westernlancia]

Hi Simon
I didn't dismantle the engine apart from taking the distributor off and cleaning it

I have a feeling it is possible to fit distributors 180 degrees out, which wouldn't help the car to start.

That might be Ford 100Es though - after this nice bottle of Bordeaux I am having trouble remembering...

[SanRemo78]

Fitted a distributor 180 degrees out myself once. On a two cylinder Fiat 126 I'd just rebuilt the motor on..... Struggled for a day until Mum (no mechanical knowledge at all....) suggested swapping the leads over.

Started first turn.

Worth a try moving plug leads round two holes on the dizzy cap?

Guy

[lancianut666]

Hi
sorry it has took me so long to reply..have been a bit busy the couple of months. The plan is when the exam board cough up for all those exam papers I have marked I will pop along to Machine Mart and purchase a compression tester and we will get to the bottom of the compression or lack of story. After we know where we are splodging we can start looking at other things.
Clarkey

[SanRemo78]

Without knowing what size thread you need I've got a compression tester that I could loan you? Whilst they're not that expensive it's something you might only use 4 times? Or 6 in my case....

Guy

[lancianut666]

Thanks for the offer...but as it was my birthday...I lashed out on a cheapy set from Amazon so if I don't get distracted this weekend I will get the overalls on and have a play
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

Hi all
looking for some advice on the compression testing, the limited instructions want me to do the tests with the engine warm. So with oil in or with no oil in the bores??
Clarkey

[DavidLaver]

No oil first.  If its low put a little in and see if it changes.  If the oil increases compression then suspect rings rather than valves. 

There's also a "leak down" test you can do, but at that point most would just lift the head for a look see...

[lancianut666]

Thanks David that was what I was thinking, will go and charge the battery up now
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

Hi all
It's compression Jim but not as we know it... 25lb on one cylinder dry. nada, nothing, zilch on the other 3, then 55lb on the 'good' cylinder with a bit of oil in the bores, also a 25lb reading on one of the other cylinders. Seems some of the valves are sticking open. Any advice? not really wanting to dismantle the engine in the car. Will have another play tomorrow.
Deflated of Hartlepool