Story so far series 1 resto

[lancianut666]

That must be the one then as there is GL4 and GL5 oils I will get a couple of litres tomorrow. It seems GL5 oils strip the brass off the synchro rings as the additives create a stickier sacrificial layer that pulls off more of the brass than GL4 oils.
CASTROL EP90
                               
Extreme pressure multi-purpose gear oil for hypoid and non hypoid applications where specified by the manufacturer.
API GL-4     



Update on the starter motor
Charged the battery
Fresh gallon of petrol
It whizzed over making lots of popping sounds (no exhaust apart from the manifold) and fired once...
Took the plugs out they were bone dry however plug 4 looked like it had fired as it was light brown.
I shall have to try with the Bradex if I can get an assistant (my mate Terry) or rig up a lead to run the starter
So it is nearly there...battery back on charge so will have another go tomorrow after I have thawed out.
Clarkey
Clarkey

[simonandjuliet]

Sounds like progress - I'd just pour some neat petrol down the carb and press the button. I often start mine like this if it's been standing for a while (after getting some oil around first). If everything is as it should be, it will run without an exhaust

Hopefully once you've got it running for a few seconds it will suck up enough fuel to keep running

[lancianut666]

Dear Doctor
I'm a bit concerned about what is coming out of my tank can you advise I have sent a picture to show you...can you please tell me if it is anything serious.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

From left to right the fuel pump eventually got some more normal petrol through...anyway after about 2 hours adjusting the throttle linkage to stop it fouling the gearchange we were ready to try starting the engine again. Armed with a fully charged battery and a can of Bradex of we went I thought the damn thing was going to start but it started to sulk again after some much more encouraging noises of more than one cylinder firing up. Might have to rig up the lead so I can start it from under the bonnet as the Bradex went all over the garage. Also when you push the clutch in you move the throttle as well...neat. Not convinced about the cold starting device on the ebay carburettor I have might swap it back for the original...All in all I am very encouraged but cream crackered
Clarkey

[nistri]

Absolutely sure that ignition and valve timings are spot on? Andrea

[rogerelias]

something must be wrong ,as it shouldn't need to use a full battery to start it, even more so using easy start ,if you are 100% sure that the valve timing is spot on, then I would be looking to check ignition timing is correct, I would rather use petrol down the carb, than use Easy start, less harsh. good luck

[Jaydub]

I am in agreement with everyone else, if ignition, valve timing and firing order are correct, and you have fuel, there is no reason an engine shouldn`t start straight away. Normally after cranking up oil pressure with plugs removed, the carb should be primed and ready to go. Refit plugs and away you go. You might have to check basics like compression on all cylinders, valve clearances correct etc. Have you checked the accelerator jet is pumping out fuel? If you`re not sure the cold start mechanism is working just put your hand or some card over the carb inlet as a choke. Also I wouldn`t advocate the use of Bradex etc. Believe it or not engines do get addicted to it and then won`t start without it if used continually.

Good Luck!

[lancianut666]

One step forward about 4 back! managed to fill the gearbox with oil with a handy gadget from Eurocar spares for a reasonable £9.62. Now I could spin the engine without keeping foot on the clutch I decided to check the compressions. Oh dear all were reading 50 psi...50psi??? all of them??? so what is going on. My neighbours father in law who is Polish had a look as we pondered the engine with the rocker covers off he seemed to think too many of the tappets were loose so valve timing or ignition timing? But that still brings us back to 50psi not the 125psi my Polish mechanic friend agreed with me should be the reading.
Clarkey

[lancialulu]

One step forward about 4 back! managed to fill the gearbox with oil with a handy gadget from Eurocar spares for a reasonable £9.62. Now I could spin the engine without keeping foot on the clutch I decided to check the compressions. Oh dear all were reading 50 psi...50psi??? all of them??? so what is going on. My neighbours father in law who is Polish had a look as we pondered the engine with the rocker covers off he seemed to think too many of the tappets were loose so valve timing or ignition timing? But that still brings us back to 50psi not the 125psi my Polish mechanic friend agreed with me should be the reading.
Clarkey

It is low (50psi) but you have a very cold engine...Also did you crank with throttle open? With others I suspect you need to go back to the beginning and check everything...

[lancianut666]

Hi all
I cranked the engine with the throttle closed. I can try again tomorrow with the throttle wide open.
Reading the repair manual I think it will be the valve timing it seems like the pistons and the valve opening and shutting is out of sync hence the 50psi
Clarkey

[simonandjuliet]

When setting the valve timing you have to take care because the pressure of the valve springs on the cam will move the camshaft.

You think that you have them both in the correct position and then as you remove the tool that turns/sets the cam, the cam moves and you don't always notice it ......

I got round this by slackening all the tappets as far as they would go (ie effectively out of the rocker), repositioning the cam, fitting the peg VERY carefully and tightening everything

Once done, set the gaps correctly and then turn the engine over checking the sequence, ie firing on 1 - both valves closed, rotate engine until  No.3 is at TDC and both valves closed etc etc

If you have followed the gapping in workshop manual , all should be well. Whilst you are at it , check the position of the rotor arm at each firing point

Sorry grandmother, I thought you'd put your teeth in

[lancianut666]

Hi Simon
Thanks for the tip on slackening all the tappets off...weather looks good for tomorrow so I think I have a timing chain cover gasket so will give it a go. First I will have to get No 1 piston to TDC I will have to use a jury rigged clock gauge as the flywheel has no marks stamped onto it. There is no water in the rad so will be not too messy.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

Of mice and men...on closer observation we seem to have both valves open at the same time on some of the pistons or if that is not happened both valves closed on at least two cylinders...so I decided to do the valve timing again got off to a good start as the access with the grill and radiator out is very good until it came to undoing the crankshaft pulley nut...luckily I thought as the S1 has a nice hole in line with the pulley for the starter handle it would soon be off even in gear chocked and handbrake on no joy. Just need a bigger lever! had to come in for refreshments and to thaw out it is still plenty cold.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

Check out the access through the starter handle hole...

[lancianut666]

No luck getting the crankshaft pulley nut off with the car in gear, handbrake on and the wheels chocked it still managed to inch its way along when I try to unscrew the nut. Will take the starter out and see if I can jam the ring gear