Story so far series 1 resto

[lancianut666]

Hi all
Followed the procedure again and this time I managed to stop the sprockets from falling off so progress. Tried checking the firing order/valve sequence and if I do 1-3-4-2 I can get the rotor arm in the right position with both valves for each cylinder closed so should start...seems I was here before last year when I put the engine together. I have tried following the valve open shut sequence but it seems all to pot so I might put the protractor on the flywheel so I can turn the engine from the front. I think I need to get my mate Terry over to give me another pair of eyes on what is going on.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

Had a think and decided to check each valve starting to open based on the info in the repair guide so inlet opens at 15 deg BTDC etc...with this method I could feel the tappet clearance close down the nearer you got to the setting so I checked all 8 valves for opening and they seem to do it where they should be so I'll put it all back together and test it out tomorrow.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

My marking has got in the way of this as I know if I start messing about and it starts I will want it back in the car and then...and then...and then...it will be the middle of September! and no marking done.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

At last a bit of time to mess about with old Lancias...My mate Terry came over so we started the process off by checking the compressions and they revealed a miserable 35 to 50psi so we started from scratch and checked the TDC with the dial gauge and vernier disc thing and proceeded to set up the valve timing. We checked the compressions again and they were just the same so head scratch time...I had a brain wave and put some engine oil down the bores and the psi range went up to 85-100psi so the valve timing seems to be there or thereabouts. i have invested in a new battery as the old one is of an unknown vintage and will give it another go with some more healthy voltage.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

In between cursing Appia engines I decided to have a go at fixing the boot lid lock. My S1 has no push button lock on the boot lid but instead has a rather cool remote release lever on the back parcel shelf connected by a cable to the lock. The cable had snapped at the lever end so a trip to Halfords scored a stainless steel gear cable and some electrical connectors. After about 20 minutes we had a working boot lock that can now be released from the lever on the parcel shelf. see piccies
Clarkey

[Jaydub]

At last a bit of time to mess about with old Lancias...My mate Terry came over so we started the process off by checking the compressions and they revealed a miserable 35 to 50psi so we started from scratch and checked the TDC with the dial gauge and vernier disc thing and proceeded to set up the valve timing. We checked the compressions again and they were just the same so head scratch time...I had a brain wave and put some engine oil down the bores and the psi range went up to 85-100psi so the valve timing seems to be there or thereabouts. i have invested in a new battery as the old one is of an unknown vintage and will give it another go with some more healthy voltage.
Clarkey

The rise in compression pressures after adding oil, would seem to suggest leakage past the piston rings and although it`s 2 years since fitting unlikely they have stuck. When the machine shop fitted the pistons did he tell you the ring gaps in the bores? Also the pistons were old, so the grooves could be well worn, allowing gas to escape around the back of the rings into the sump? Ring gaps are normally 003" to 004" per inch of bore diameter and are important for gas sealing and reducing oil consumption.

[lancianut666]

Hi Jaydub
Me and Terry discussed the ring gaps and valve seats etc but we did not have a new head gasket handy so were reluctant to take the head off. I think we will give the new battery a go then if that is no good we shall take the head off and check the bores/rings when I can get up to Hartlepool for the new gaskets etc.
The possibilities are the ring gaps aren't  correctly spaced...all 4 pistons?
The rebore/piston/rings are not the right sizes so will need to measure the ring gap according to the repair manual it is between 0.25mm to 0.4mm and the groove clearance is 0.055 to 0.082mm
Clarkey

[Jaydub]

Yes all 4 piston ring gaps could be too big if the cylinders were honed and you have old pistons. Depending on the machine shop`s thoroughness, the cylinders could be barrel shaped. Measure the gaps down the bores where the rings will run and keep each set to the bore you measured it in. Swap them around if they vary, to get the correct gaps in a particular bore if possible. Sometimes the machining can vary, so therefore so do the gaps.

[lancianut666]

Terry got quite excited as he thought it was going to start at one point but it was not to be so we gave up. I will take the head off and do the old parafin test on the valves and the bores. An observation was the head gasket appeared unmarked and had had not been squashed down...the head has been skimmed so have the domed nuts bottomed out on the top of the studs rather than tightening down the head... the parafin test will tell us more.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

Hi all
After the car had been exposed to a rain shower during the engine fiasco it became apparent the roof needed some urgent attention as the rust that had been slumbering for the last 20 years or so burst into action with a vengeance. So we powered up the compressor and with various sanding and grinding devices I got as much of the loose rust and paint off and gave it a coat of rust inhibitor primer followed by some very badly applied topcoat in Volkswagen 'Candy White'. I was considering changing the colour so this was an opportunity to see what it would look like. I have to admit spraying large panels with aerosol paint inside a smallish garage is a recipe for disaster. In addition at £6 a pop it is an expensive way to do it. Still we have settled the future colour scheme. In amongst all this in and out of the garage the front brakes driver side have let go and there is brake fluid all over the wheel and tyre so the next job is the brakes (Again!) as it is handy being able to stop the car on the footbrake as my driveway has a slope on it. I hope to get back to the engine later this week.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

The camera can lie as it looks like my spray work is OK it isn't...I had purchased a new boot seal from Elvezzio but it is so thick it is preventing the boot lid from shutting! One step forward....
Clarkey

[Jaydub]

[quote
Terry got quite excited as he thought it was going to start a01]t one point but it was not to be so we gave up. I will take the head off and do the old parafin test on the valves and the bores. An observation was the head gasket appeared unmarked and had had not been squashed down...the head has been skimmed so have the domed nuts bottomed out on the top of the studs rather than tightening down the head... the parafin test will tell us more.
Clarkey

That is a possibility, although the compressions increased when you put oil in the bores, so that would discount a loose head. To check, get a new gasket and measure the thickness of the fire ring on both and compare . Refit the cylinder head with the gasket you have just used, put some thick washers under the nuts, retorque, remove head and remeasure gasket thickness to see if it has reduced in thickness. Alternatively use normal good quality Hex nuts instead of the washers.
Good luck.

[lancianut666]

Hi all
Today was the paraffin test so I filled the combustion chambers on the head and covered the tops of the pistons with paraffin see pics they have the time on so when we look at the later pics we can see how much has drained out...

[lancianut666]

and a bit later...

[lancianut666]

and later still...