Fanalone restoration

[DavidLaver]

Measuring equipment and ultrasonic cleaners at sensible prices.  I'm posting it here as we admired Neil's bore gauge pictured a few months back.   However I expect I personally won't trouble Santa and will stick to an old piston plus feelers...

http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/index.php?target=categories&category_id=22

David

[ncundy]

There's some nice stuff on there at reasonable prices. I looked at buying one of those digital dial gauges but they were over £100 a couple of years ago.

[ncundy]

Well, the phrase "as good as new" is often overused and misapplied but in this case I can safely say I can use it correctly:

One set of brand new, out of the box, vernier cam sprockets. Still with the packing wax on! A clean up in the tank, quick tickle with the honing stones to take out a couple of very slight water marks and (literally) as good as new 

Thanks go to Morris Parry (24 hrs after asking  on the forum - hows that for an advertisement for what we have?), and James. 

Job for Christmas is now to get the head on and set the timing.

[fay66]

Father Christmas came a bit early then Neil

Another greart advert for the Forum and Lancisti.

Brian
8227

[sparehead3]

I think you're lucky they didn't deliver it personnally !

[chugga boom]

what you trying to say  i think it would have been a cracking idea to deliver personally, could have dropped off the latest appia to drop in neils tank and see whats left  , neil glad your pleased with them, its amazing what turns up in our barns lol !!! i just need someone to turn up with some s1 or s2 appia doors before i have to make a pair 

[DavidLaver]

Neil,

If ever an engine, and engine builder, deserved those N.O.S sprokets...

At least we all now KNOW you'll be having a happy Christmas 

David

[ncundy]

The timing gears are on and first pass has got the cam timing to within about 1/2 tooth (say about 1.6 deg). I should be able to get it better with some timing discs.

Now I am getting the gearbox sorted. First job was to get the remote lever off and apart, the bell housing and the clutch release bearing off. All have various seals and bearings that want replacing due to the passage of time. There is one fixing for the remote which is an Allen key bolt (photo 2)- I showed it a key and it promptly rounded off - so it had to be drilled out.

To get the 'box apart you have to withdraw the main shaft which runs the full length and essentially ties the whole thing together. This is done by taking the rear end plate off, exposing a circlip, thrust plate and spring clip. With these removed the shaft can be pulled out from the front. Then the bell housing can be removed. I also removed the rear 5th gear cartridge (which is the "piggyback" part of a piggyback gearbox - fitted to the first 1000ish Fanalones). The piggy back gearbox is based on the 4-speed of the standard cars but differs in detail, like having no syncro on first maybe because there was not enough space, and also a plethora of ratios and an LSD to choose from (photos 3,4,5).

Nice touches are the serial number of the CWP set stamped on the pinion, which also has the set backlash engraved on it.

The bell housing has a roller bearing in (# HK2016 type) and two oil seals. The bearing and one of the oil seals iare in a small housing. All are available from a decent bearing supplier so have been ordered and should be here tomorrow. Leaks through here will contaminate the clutch face (photo 6).

The remote assembly also has four seals in - again all available in standard sizes.

The clutch release bearing was rough so I unpicked the case and bought a new bearing (NKA # 6008 type ) and reassembled it. Cost £8, better than £50 odd from a specialist and you know you have a decent bearing in it (before and after photos 7 & 8 ).

[angelorange]

Hi Neale

About to do a rrebuild on my 1600 Zagato box - can you advise the bearing/seal suppliers?

Did yours have an LSD?

Thanks

[ncundy]

No, mine doesn't have an LSD.

The bearings and seals are all standard sizes (well, the ones I have removed are anyway). If you measure them (ID, OD, W) you will be able to look them up on the 'net. I got all mine from Derby Bearings (most available over the counter, a couple on order), but there will be somewhere near you that you can take them into and discuss.

Get good quality ones (SKF, FAG, INA, NKE) and for the seals worth asking for Viton as it is a higher spec. Don't get them from a Lancia specialist, you'll get charged throu' the nose for the same stuff.

I was told that one of the main shaft bearings is NLA by someone who had done a piggy back box, but mine are fine so I haven't identified which one it is. An S2 box I don't think has any NLA bearings.

If you are doing the box yourself, have you got the special tools? This site gives a good idea of what to expect.

http://www.eddinsmoto.com/id93.htm

[Dilambdaman]

Hi Neil,

Couldn't be better timing! Jonathan is coming over today to remove the gearbox from our Fanalone to see if we can find the cause of the seizure on our way to Classic Le Mans last year. The box had been getting progressively noisier and my guess is that it needs a total rebuild.

Please keep the pictures and advice coming.

Robin.

[ncundy]

Hi Robin,

I guess whatever it is that is the problem it will require a strip down.

Stage one would be to split the box and have a look.

Just to add to what I put above:
first remove the drive shaft as described above

to remove the 5th gear cartridge you will also have to remove the lock plate on the bottom gear shaft (see photo). To do this remove lock wire and hold the gear above. I found a front hub tool just fits the castellations. The two bolts on the lock plate are not very tight so once you have held the gear train via the gear they should come undone quite easily. When splitting don't lose the key on the bottom gear, or the syncro ring on 5th gear as both can drop out.

to remove the bell housing is easy - just the nuts you can see.

That is about as far as you can go without special tools or new bits. You can now see in the front and some of the back of the box but to actually split the box you need to remove the 5th gear cartridge backing plate and one of the drive flanges (the one furthest from the CW).

I haven't got that far yet (I may decide not to go any further) but to remove the backing plate first you have to remove the gear selector fork. Push it backwards so you can see the spring pin in the fork and with a punch knock it out. Then I think the fork can be withdrawn and then the backing plate.

To remove the drive flange you need a castellated socket that fits. I don't have one (although it should be pretty simple to make), but with this off it looks as though you can remove the shaft and then split the box.

HTH
Neil

[Dilambdaman]

Neil,

Jonathan has been reading this thread and is planing to start dismantling the box this week. So, many thanks for posting.

Not sure yet how far he will go before calling in some expert assistance - not me incidentally!

Robin.

[ncundy]

Keeping things moving along.

All the bearings and oil seals are now replaced in the bellhousing (all back together), all the seals replaced in the remote change housing and new bronze bush made up for the remote lever (photo's one and two).

I found a bit of play in the splines of the nearside flange so I have removed that to have a better look. The play is very small and I will assemble it with Locktite 638 (Locktite have a very good website and should be essential reading for anyone looking for assembly solutions).

[Robin; this was quite straight forward as the nut was loose on mine. Once the nut is off you can remove the flange then undo the outer retaining nuts and the bearing cartridge lifts out. It looks as though you can then split the box. I have a copy of the gearbox overhaul document for piggy back boxes, it's in italian but a picture is worth a thousand words etc. If you want a copy PM me]

Next job is to replace the oil seals and bearings (oil seals are from here ).

[ColinMarr]

Neale,

As ever, still mightily impressed by what you achieve and I sincerely hope I never have to split a Fulvia gearbox!

You have mentioned all the bearings and seals in the box itself, but are you expecting to do any refurbishment of the remote shift? I think it is quite common to have lateral wear in the plain bushes through which the actuating rod slides and turns. Do you have any recommended treatment for this?

Colin