Fanalone restoration

[ncundy]

Hi Jon,

Sorry to hear the extent of the damage; I'd got my fingers crossed for you that it wouldn't be so bad. I guess you now know the scale of the problem - any thoughts on the solution? Is it a case of getting/making the necessary bits or are you looking for a replacement box?

As I have gone through mine I've tried to work out which bits may be inter-changable with the other more common boxes. Unfortunately the conclusion I've come to is not a lot.

Neil

[ncundy]

Almost got the 'box back together yesterday. My dad made up a couple of sockets to do the ring nuts up with and we got the air hammer on them. All back in and ok, but when I checked the two bolts that lock the bottom idler gear shaft one had a crack in it. Hit it with a hammer and the head came off. So have to make one of those now, as I said almost got it back together 

[fay66]

Almost got the 'box back together yesterday. My dad made up a couple of sockets to do the ring nuts up with and we got the air hammer on them. All back in and ok, but when I checked the two bolts that lock the bottom idler gear shaft one had a crack in it. Hit it with a hammer and the head came off. So have to make one of those now, as I said almost got it back together 

Aren't Dads useful, everyone should have one

Brian
8227

[ncundy]

New bolts received, the 'box is now finished. The black side bracket was badly cracked so was rebuilt - worth checking if you're ever looking in that area.

[fay66]

Neil,
Well done, what's next?

Brian
8227

[ncundy]

Well, after taking the kids sledging this morning, the next job was tidying the workshop 

Probably start putting stuff in the subframe.

[Neil]

Neil, did you do any repairs to the subframe, or protected it any way except for paint/wax before you refit it?

[ncundy]

Hi Neil,

I shotblasted mine and then galvanised and stove enamalled it (and all the other suspension bits). From memory it cost about £400 (finding someone to bead blast the aluminium bits took a while). Then I Dinatrol'd it. It didn't need any repairs, although I did get the mounts in the sill replaced. Photo attached of it assembled.

There is a bit of discussion and advice here:

http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=568.0

Neil

[Neil]

Neil,  I had my subframe, uprights and components shot/sand blasted in 1996. after some welding and repair work at Evo Engineering by Paul (now Fulvias in France) then powder coated, I filled it with Waxoyl until it ran out of the joints, then moved the subframe into a new position and so on.  Your protection seems infinitely better than mine, as it has not really been back in the car for long and the car has now moved house and again the subframe removed, for finishing some of the body work, so not exposed to the weather at all, one day soon I hope! 

I may fill up the subframe again before final refitting, one question did you leave the two holes open on the top of the rear legs?  This was widely discussed at Barry's I remember in the 1980s & 90s as design error, or a drawing error which was carried over to production, the holes may have been intended to be on the lower side not the top, so any water could drain out and not be trapped.

Attached an early digital photo from 1996 taken with an Apple Quicktake 100 camera  (8 shots or 16 lower res shots, no removal media, digital cameras have moved on somewhat since then!)

[ncundy]

I left them open but drilled holes in the bottom. They may be there to locate a jig during manufacture.

Nice to see you were an early convert to the digital age !!

[ncundy]

To fill in a bit of time this weekend I took the heater valve apart to clean it. I re-assembled it with some rubber grease, but when I tested it I found that when fully open the flow was woeful. After a bit of head scratching I fathomed that the lid of the valve was restricting the lift of the diaphram. I made up a gasket (about 2mm) and refitted the top. This now gives a nice full flow through the valve.

But I am puzzled as to this, because the flow was so bad as to be almost non-existent. Did the valves have a gasket in and mine was just missing or is this just how they are? Any comments from people who have looked at this before?

[fay66]

To fill in a bit of time this weekend I took the heater valve apart to clean it. I re-assembled it with some rubber grease, but when I tested it I found that when fully open the flow was woeful. After a bit of head scratching I fathomed that the lid of the valve was restricting the lift of the diaphram. I made up a gasket (about 2mm) and refitted the top. This now gives a nice full flow through the valve.

But I am puzzled as to this, because the flow was so bad as to be almost non-existent. Did the valves have a gasket in and mine was just missing or is this just how they are? Any comments from people who have looked at this before?

So long since I did mine last I can't remember but it certainly needs looking at so I'll let you know when I do.
Have you a bead blast cabinet or such like, if not, how do you get a finish like that on components?

Brian
8227

[ncundy]

I bought an industrial ultrasonic cleaner off e-bay about 2 years ago. Cleans things up a treat, especially anything painted by Lancia 

I've found you only have to threaten it with Nitromors for the paint to wilt in terror; the tank takes it all off cleanly. Then finish them off with wire brush, etch primer and a couple of top coats.

[DavidLaver]

...and what fluid in the tank...?   Just water and a dash of washing up liquid or anything stronger?

David

[ncundy]

I've been using a Quadralene cleaner (about a 5% mix) for non-ferrous metals on the advise of the chap I bought the tank off. He said if you use a ferrous cleaner on aluminium (which is a lot of the metal I am cleaning) it corrodes them after you have taken them out. There are more aggressive cleaners available but I have never used them and have been happy with the results I have got.

The only aggravation is tanking it all up and taking it to the tip when you change the fluid.