Fanalone restoration

[1,6 HF]

I fear the wheels on this are an aftermarket "add on" by a previous owner.They were never fitted on production models in that colour.Is this a factory homologated special perhaps as I note the minimal seating arrangement presumably to save weight.?

the blue wheels were only available on the LHD models, so this example must have been converted to RHD at some point.

[Neil]

I wondered if it was prototype F&M Special?!

[ColinMarr]

Scarpia,

Yes it is a lightweight mono-posto and has been modified over the years so I don’t claim originality. It’s basically 1st Series from 1972 and had a tough time with its first 3 female owners up to about 1980. Then it was in dry-store for a while prior to restoration in 2004. This included sanding down and re-lacquering, re-building the steering head with nylon bushes, strengthening the rear-end and fitting new-old-stock wheels. At that time it was also re-badged as Lancia It is currently enjoyed by the third of three new users who take it out on occasional visits.

(Neil, Sorry to have mucked up your thread!)

Colin

[ncundy]

No problem ! I didn't see it represented amongst the "100 yrs at Covent Garden" Surely some oversight by the organisers !

[Scarpia]

Thanks for the explanation Neil, glad to hear that I'm not the only one using Hammerite.
I really had to search for it here in belgium as most shops told me they couldn't sell these types of paint any more due to environmental Legislation apparently. I had to sneak in to a disreputable establishment, and ask for "something for the weekend" which was then produced from under the counter wrapped in a plain brown paper packing....

[Richard Fridd]

Well it can always be drilled out and a threadsert or some such put in - so not terminal. If you can get it on a pedestal drill you would be able to drill the nipple out as far as the thread (not into the thread) and then tap it out with the correct size tap - I have done this few times but you have to able to get the drill in straight and control it. Either way you would have to strip and clean the caliper afterwards. Alternatively can you file a shallow slot in the top and get a small screwdriver in (if its not seized) to rotate it ?
As you say - bugger !

[Richard Fridd]

Well it can always be drilled out and a threadsert or some such put in - so not terminal. If you can get it on a pedestal drill you would be able to drill the nipple out as far as the thread (not into the thread) and then tap it out with the correct size tap - I have done this few times but you have to able to get the drill in straight and control it. Either way you would have to strip and clean the caliper afterwards. Alternatively can you file a shallow slot in the top and get a small screwdriver in (if its not seized) to rotate it ?
As you say - bugger !

[Richard Fridd]

on the subject of damaged brake nipples one method of removal is to apply heat then ice to the nipple remains [stripped calliper] then use an appropriate LH stud removing tool

[Scarpia]

sounds like medieval torture but I know what you mean....

[Richard Fridd]

read about it in a friends specialist mag

[ncundy]

Latest finished job is re-piping the car. All brake and fuel pipes have been replaced (except the main fuel run). All are copper except the main fuel run which is copper/nickle. I left the original in, after cleaning internally with fuel injector cleaner, because CN is difficult to bend without kinking, and trying to get the correct shape off the vehicle is hard. If this was being replaced I would use copper as it is easier to work. As has been mentioned by some on here, the important thing is to ensure that there is enough clearence between the subframe and pipes where they curve under the bulk head. All have been treated with rust killer (Dinatrol) and then painted. All the clips have been lined with rubber to prevent chaffing and vibration and I replaced all the flexibles with Goodridge stainless steel braded lines (these made quite a bit of difference on my brothers car).

[chris]

Yes - Goodridge/Aeroquip/stainless steel braided are a "must have" on Dunlop equipped cars - a huge improvement even on new O.E. hoses.  Only real disadvantage being that you can no longer clamp off supply to a slave cylinder without damaging internal hose lining.

[ncundy]

Good point about clamping the hose, will remember that for later.

[fay66]

Yes - Goodridge/Aeroquip/stainless steel braided are a "must have" on Dunlop equipped cars - a huge improvement even on new O.E. hoses.  Only real disadvantage being that you can no longer clamp off supply to a slave cylinder without damaging internal hose lining.

Hi Chris,
Are they readily available for my 2c? I did see some up for sale on ebay but the seller couldn't tell me if they would fit

As it happens I have very good brakes on the 2c, last year before setting off for Turin I put it into David Thomas, an Alfa specialist at Codicote near Welwyn Garden City, to fit new pads, check the brakes out, and change the fluid.
When I went to try it next day I'd lost a lot of the pedal, so they left it overnight & the brake fairey must have made a visit, as by the next morning the pedal was mysteriously back & they were the best they had ever been

Brian
8227

[ncundy]

According to the TAVs, the part number for the three flexibles is the same for all S1 cars (coupes and saloons), so on that basis I guess the are the same.