Fanalone restoration

[fay66]

According to the TAVs, the part number for the three flexibles is the same for all S1 cars (coupes and saloons), so on that basis I guess the are the same.

Thanks for that Neil.

Brian

[Scarpia]

I've also run on goodridges since the eighties on the fulvia and still think of them as a "fit and forget" modification .

I remember reading once however (article JR?) that whilst there is a clear performance improvement a possible disadvantage is that you don't see failure of the inner rubber starting to develop so periodic inspection is perhaps worth doing? Not sure how without dismantling the lines and I've never bothered.I suspect the goodridges are the "strongest link" on my car.....

[ncundy]

I have been fitting some sound deadening in the last few weeks. I have used a matt black tile on the floor area. It is thin (~2mm), and is the same colour as the interior panels. Importantly when heated with a heat gun it softens and flows into the shape of the panels -so it looks pretty good. It does not have a particularly high insulation level (about 1 db I think), but will prevent any booming. I got it from the local motor factors. For the roof I used a more professional medium - Dynamat Extreme. This is a thick (5mm) bitumen based material with aluminum facing giving about 3db with a high temp adhesive so that it doesn't fall down.

Maybe not in the complete spirit of a Fanalone but it is a Lusso! But I do intend to use this car so a trying to make the cabin a little more refined (in a way that still leaves the interior looking orginal) has always been in my plans.

[ncundy]

Things are moving along slowly. After a month trying to recover the original headlining I have had to admit defeat. I cleaned it, repaired it, had new spring loops stiched on but it was just too fragile to re-use. As soon as I started to streach it, it split just about every where (stiching and material). So after a bit of research with my trimmer a very close alternative material was found and the old headlining used as a pattern. As it was not available in the original grey (it was beige) I used vinyl paint from www.woolies-trim.co.uk which is a very close match. All told it has cost me about £120. Hopefully this weekend I will finish the fitting and can then put in the rest of the interior

[ncundy]

A couple of photos of the fuel tank now it has been stripped, cleaned and repaired. I have coated the inside with tank sealant and the underside with stone guard spray. Just got to repair the gauze filter holder on the tank plug, finish making the gaskets and then it can all go back in.




And also one of the dash as it gradually gets fitted out

[ncundy]

A bit more progress. As the veneer on the dash was split, damaged and faded I have stripped it. New veneer, stained and varnished, and some repairs to the plastic backing, and now all abck in for a trial fit.

[ncundy]

And a start on the drive shafts. The first one is now split, mostly cleaned and about ready for re-assembly.

[ncundy]

Well, the drive-shafts are now finished. A pretty straight forward job but my word is it dirty. Forty year old grease stinks, especially when a 2 year old tries to tip up your degreasing tank!

Getting them apart is just a sharp tap on the inside of the outer CV joint to pop the retaining clip, and a drift through the middle of the outside of the inner CV joint to pop that end. Then (after initial degrease) you can remove the retaining spring clip and withdraw the longitudinal cartridge from the outer end (catching all the balls) and workout how to dissemble the rotational cage. Took me back to my days as class rubics cube champion! With a twist here, a line up there the balls can be popped out one by one, and then with another twist, a turn and a quick pull the cage and star are released.

[ncundy]

This is the same at the outer end (with no longitudinal cartridge). Then when all is cleaned and checked for wear, as the good books say, to re-fit simply reverse procedure with some new grease. The stars and cages are interchangeable end-to end, but have a right and wrong way up (if back to front they cannot be rotated), and make sure the you have fitted the spacers on the splines (they ensure the correct depth on the shaft so the circular retaining clip engages correctly in its chamfered recess in the star). With the boots pushed on the shaft can be mated to the star again – I found I had to tighten the retaining spring clips as you have to trap then in the top lead-in and it is a bit of a fiddly job – then give the shaft a good tap and it all clips together.

The outer boot needs a slim line metal band clip or tie wrap so that it doesn’t foul the hub. Inner boots are not easy to get hold of: Omicron advised to try and save them but mine were split (buy a handful of retaining clips from Omicron – they often break when splitting the shaft). Peter Harding got me some from Cavelleto but they are not cheap.

As you can see, one of my cages broke. Although it had signs of fatigue, I suspect I broke it when splitting the outer CV joint from the shaft – probably too aggressive with the hammer – so take a bit of care.

End result is a good as new pair of drive shafts ready to be installed. Now all I need is an engine and transmission to fit them to 

[fay66]

Real labour of love Neil Just as well you're not charging yourself garage labour rates!

Brian
8227

[ncundy]

Yep, but I wish I was being payed garage rates 

[ncundy]

Whilst slowly putting together the drivers door (nothing much on interest there), my father has made a fixing boss for the steering wheel. Taking the existing extension he has set in a nylatron bush with a brass ring in it for the horn circuit and made a lovely retaining boss (out of brass then plated). Fixed in with plated allen bolts it looks just right (IMHO). The bolts are a pain as they all have the makers mark stamped in the head which would not look very nice - so they were all machined down.

[fay66]

Real classy work, as ever

Looks good.


Brian
8227

[ncundy]

Thanks for the comment - as ever these projects become family affairs, and in this case it is my fathers work not mine. If you've ever seen his Aurelia you'll know he has high standards 

[ncundy]

It's been a few weeks since I posted - holidays and other jobs have got in the way, but now after a week cleaning the garage and workshop I have finally stated on the engine. Nothing much found so far but early days (fingers crossed !). Head, sump, water pump and oil filter assembly removed. Engine turns fine, bores look good on first impression. Lots of sludge about (condensation form lack of use I guess). Corrosion has started to get at the water pump housing hose boses, but I think this will be recoverable with some liquid metal.
I'll post some pictures this evening.