Aprilia Cabrio - here we go again

[DavidLaver]

Obviously the press is a lovely thing to have, but could it be done without it?

[davidwheeler]

I have never used my press to assemble my gearbox - if it is warm enough the bearings go in no problem with maybe a light tap from a copper hammer.

[simonandjuliet]

I found the press "nice to have" and it gave me a bit more control , especially when refitting the bearing dowels. It is right next to my bench and is always available , so I tend to use it quite a lot

[simonandjuliet]

Gearbox finished, complete with newly made gaskets (4 in all) and new chromed gear-lever and cuff.

The front cover inside the bell-housing has studs and set screws, I assumed that the screws were to accurately locate the cover so I fitted those before tightening up the nuts

Moved onto the dynamo and starter motor that have now been stripped and checked prior to repainting and assembly

[simonandjuliet]

Another job ticked off - worst job was removing the paint from a previous refurbishment - horrible brushed gloss !

Everything was in good condition except the starter motor contact which is a triangular copper block, so I turned it around to get a new face.
The dynamo needed a new wire soldering in and I had to dig through the spares to find a good regulator

The list is getting shorter .....

[simonandjuliet]

Brakes next - so trying to conjure up something from this little lot

I did find a couple of good master-cylindres, honed them and chose the best and fitted new seals. The braking system appears to be a real mix of metric and imperial so I need to measure each thread and make sure I have the correct union.

Early Aprilias have Lockhead brakes whereas the later, 2nd series have Sabif. There are a lot of differences so care needs to be taken

I tidied up a 2 blade fan, but it was a bit "silk purse from sow's ear" because this one has had a significant amount of welding in the past, so if there is a nicer one out there , please let me know

I am hoping to get the chassis back from Dog in the next 10 days, so any spare time is being spent getting bits ready ......

[simonandjuliet]

Quick update ....

Brake parts cleaned ready for fitting. Strange mix of metric and imperial. I have 2 brake flexi connectors - one brass , one steel - the first is metric (M10x1.5) and the other is imperial (7/16 x 20 bsf , I think) but both fit the same female, metric union ..... all original parts

The air filter was a surprise. I undid the lugs holding it together and just about caught all the aluminium tubes locked inside - 2027 in all ...

A question - was wrinkle paint used pre-war

I want a petrol resistant paint for the filter because I think that they must have been cleaned in petrol as a single unit originally. The handbook just says "air filter". 2nd series have a removable , separate filter

[Sliding Pillar]

I think the correct paint finish for the filter is just a satin to gloss black. I never cleaned mine with petrol, just occasionally blew it through with an air gun. I'm sure that the correct number of pellets is 2031 😁 you can always add a couple of drilled out air gun pellets!!!

[mikeC]

I believe wrinkle-finish paint was introduced in the 1950s, but crackle-finish (a very similar effect but with flat plates of colour) was certainly around in the late 1920s. It was commonly used on radio fittings, but also featured, for example, on the dashboards of fabric-bodied Austin Sevens in 1929. Here's an example I did earlier (like thirty years ago!) on a later Austin dash panel:

[the.cern]

I think crackle finish is standard Augusta rocker cover and that is what I intend to use unless corrected by others on here!!!
It does all look very impressive ....... I have a lot of other 'stuff' on my plate at the moment so will not be back to the cars in the immediate future, but they are on my mind!!
Good luck with all the bits and there is the excitement of the shell coming back from Dog.

                                               Andy

[simonandjuliet]

I'm going to have to re-visit the wrinkle/not to wrinkle question later. It needs to be a petrol resistant paint for the top and bottom and either nickel or chrome finish for the middle. I can run the engine without for the time being so I will park the problem for a while ....

Now to another conundrum - wiring

I have been going over various wiring diagrams for 12 and 6 v systems and I have come across a number of questions for (more) modern use:

Firstly, I have decided to stick with a 12v system even though it would originally have been 6v. At some time during its history the car was converted to 12v and although I have all the 6v bits, it makes sense to stay with 12v - it looks identical apart from the battery.

I need to fit indicators and L/R brake lights, so need to include circuits for this - so do I keep the original trafficators as well ?

I need headlights that dip via a simple, quick switch. The original set up appears to use the central switch (that needs the key to be turned) to switch between dip and main. I had never thought about this before because my 2nd ser has a (later ?) foot switch to change the dip/main

Also, the central push button on the steering wheel is for horn and lights on some circuit diagram/descriptions, with a separate button at the side of the dash for night use ..... 

First job has been to study all the wiring diagrams (6v,12v and differences between cabrio and saloon) and understanding how it was done originally, next is to dismantle and work out how the switches and relays work. Hopefully once I've got my head around all that I can design a loom that looks correct and works at the same time

Or do I just stick to the original and live with the irritations ??

All comments greatly received !

[nistri]

"The original set up appears to use the central switch (that needs the key to be turned) to switch between dip and main. I had never thought about this before because my 2nd ser has a (later ?) foot switch to change the dip/main
Also, the central push button on the steering wheel is for horn and lights on some circuit diagram/descriptions, with a separate button at the side of the dash for night use ....."

Interestingly, this is precisely the same wiring system of my original 1947 (6 V) Ardea. I quite like it   , Andrea

[DavidLaver]

Is there a good reason not to keep the trafficators as well? They're a crowd pleaser and never fail to make me smile when I see them in action.  There are trafficator bulbs with built in flashers but not very bright. I think "safety indicators" placed somewhere unseen when off and very obvious when on are important if its going to see a lot of use.

http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/festoon-bulbs.php

For dip/main a foot switch is (relatively) hidden, and you're used to it, and has that "it might have always been there" look to it.  Other options for "both hands on the wheel" use are a stalk clamped to the steering column or a long toggle off the dash.

These days "ask Alexa to dip the lights"...

[DavidLaver]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nr59zPRlsA

[frankxhv773t]

You have done so much work already I would renew the wiring and build it the way you want. Definitely keep the trafficators and add the flashing upgrade but add discrete modern indicators where other drivers will be looking for them as well.