Aprilia Cabrio - here we go again

[simonandjuliet]

The wooden trim is a nice, short grained wood that would varnish nicely , but I would need to get the colour right first - we'll see !

Practice fit of the bootlid today. There has been quite a lot of new metal in the bottom because it was a "U" shaped water-trap. This has been modified slightly to improve drainage

I have also changed the locking mechanism, returning to an over-centred clip (I think that is how to describe it) system rather than a lever

Additional photos when I have them !

[simonandjuliet]

A couple of "missing" photos plus I fitted the windscreen today - getting there ....

The screen is set into a semi-dry mastic, not a PU-type so as and when it needs to come out,  it can !

[DavidLaver]

I hadn't noticed the rear window frame before.  Is it glass rather than flexible plastic?

[simonandjuliet]

Hi David
The rear window is sewn in semi-rigid plastic with a rigid aluminium frame, may not be original because the roof has been changed before

Forgot the photo of the windscreen sealant

[simonandjuliet]

As a slight aside, I was asked recently about the auto-clean filter , a rotating vane oil filter used by Aprilias and , I believe other 30's cars

I have written a short piece for VL, but not sure if Jack will include it in a future issue so here are a few photos from when I took one to pieces to see how it worked

There are about 400 pieces, so it needs careful cleaning and re-assembly and the final stage requires a wide vice to squeeze it together in order to fit the lower split pin, although I'm sure that there are other ways of doing it.

[Mikenoangelo]

Also fitted the the Augusta. So far I have been unable to unscrew the bottom nut to remove and clean the filter - a job for a rotary impact tool I think - small tapping meaning less strain. I'll have to borrow one.

I changed the oil last year when I bought the car and have done 1000 miles since then and the oil has stayed remarkably clean so it certainly works.

Mike

[nistri]

Ardea also has a similar filter that is undone with a very large spanner (30 mm by memory) plus a similar one cut short with an angle grinder as there is very little room for turning it. I have always cleaned the filter in petrol as per Lancia instructions and used an old tooth brush plus blowing it with compressed air. Andrea

[JohnMillham]

OK for filtering out large lumps, but not as good as a modern "micro" filter as fitted to everything these days.

[simonandjuliet]

Andrea, I agree and do the same with my filters from time to time

The one in the pictures was seized completely, something that I think can happen if the upper ratchet (that is attached to a rod from the clutch pedal) becomes too worn to return the lever. I have several that also had sheared the central rod , again probably from a seized unit

Hence the need to completely dismantle the unit, a nice satisfying job !

[nistri]

Interestingly, in the Ardea the rod of the oil filter is connected to the starter motor so it turns every time the engine is started.
On certain older Lancias (some early Appias for instance) there was no oil filter at all. However, the factory instructions were to change the engine oil every 1000 km (or yearly).

[simonandjuliet]

Couple of photos of the Aprilia set up

Caution !! - I need someone to operate the clutch whilst I adjust it so it may not be in exactly the right position, you can adjust the length of the rod

[simonandjuliet]

I hope that everyone is staying safe, healthy and sane

I am still allowed to work in the vineyard, but I can't always get supplies so I have had some time in the garage - every cloud and all that

When I bought the Cabrio I was told that the rear axle had been rebuilt, but I wanted to check this myself. I started with the trailing arms and removed all the bearings and seals - some were a little recalcitrant - I suppose that is to expected !

A couple of photos showing before and after (it took about 2 hours to take apart each side) along with some of the dis-assembly details. One hub was very difficult to remove even with a large 3-point puller, it needed additional wedges under the arms to help get it started

Plus one of the trailing arm bearings needed a lot of heat (induction) to get the locking nut out, it did eventually move, but I melted the oil seal

Once the bearings were out I soaked them in petrol to remove the old grease, blew them through with the airline and repeated until the bearings were clean, then re-packed with grease. The problem with the trailing arm bearings is that they only move through a limited angle so they tend to seize or get very "graunchy" , so hopefully this will make the trailing arm movement smoother

Once apart it has all been cleaned and painted ready for re-assembly

I will write up an "anorak's guide to rear axle bearings" with sizes and differences between S1 & S2 , but most people will want to skip this !

[DavidLaver]

Good to hear able to tend the vines.

I know you're delighted with the induction heater and wonder how you survived so long without a press, but if it wasn't for having them would you have attempted this job?  What would you have done without them?

Always grateful for these updates, all the more so with announcements in the UK today.

[simonandjuliet]

David, hope that you are feeling better !

Re garage tools, the press is invaluable. As you know, removing bearings is possible with a large bench vice and various sockets etc, but is clumsy and risks damage. The press is soooo much easier and safer

The induction heater is a luxury because you can use an oxy-set , but it is a lovely bit of kit and is very effective, resulting in little or no peripheral damage

So to answer your question, looking at some of the damage/marks on some of the bits, it can be done without the above, but personally I wouldn't like to attempt it !

ps can anyone tell me how to attach a .docx (ie word file) - or is it not possible ?

[lancialulu]

Simon got me into getting an induction heater a couple of years ago (boltbuster). It is an amazing bit of kit especially with the long “litz” accessory wire. It only fails is the metal isn't steel. Yesterday I couldn't strip the to long M6 studs holding a Bosch starter motor together as 2 lock nuts were not enough to over come the locking force of the stud in the starter motor body. Wrapping the litz cable round the whole starter motor body heated it up locally without heating up the armature that I was trying to dismantle. 30seconds later both studs cracked free.

On subject of posting docs, convert them to pdf!