Aprilia Cabrio - here we go again

[Jaydub]

Great attention to detail as always Simon.Lovely job.  Ref plug extensions: Do they not short out at all with that exposed metal rod? I would have put rubber tubing or heat shrink over them, but I guess the proof is they work on your Berlina.

Keep up the good work!

[ColinMarr]

Back in the day there were not uncommon issues associated with plug connectors. One was an early warning indicator of water in the oil, leading to condensation on the plug connectors and a tell-tale misfiring. Removing a plug connector to see it smeared with what looked like mayonnaise was a depressing experience. This happened to me once and indicated a corroded block, subsequently repaired with Devcon. Another issue was causing an explosion under the rocker cover due to a build-up of unburnt fuel vapour. I have seen Aprilia bonnets (not mine) with a neat raised dome directly about the filler cap caused by just such an explosion! Happy days!   

[Sebastien]

Regarding the plug connectors:

- A nicely written piece, published many years ago : https://viva-lancia.com/snippet/snippet7.htm
- New plug connectors are again available from Cavalitto;
- I have an Aprilia, now driven for more than 4000 km after a full restoration (not mine!), and have never had problems with the plugs. Problems however with condenser and coil, both changed now.

[davidwheeler]

I covered mine with plastic hose but still have the occasional explosion and have the dome in the bonnet to prove it.    The mayonnaise is called "woil" but I have only seen it (too often alas) in my Lambdas.

[simonandjuliet]

I wonder how much the new connectors are .... ?

I put the first suspension unit back together today, and took some photos of the various stages, so please skip the next couple of posts if you're not interested because I'm limited to 8 photos per post !

I have measured everything as best I can, and it is clear that the lower bearings were never parallel-sided, they are more barrel-shaped. If anyone wants measurements let me know

Overall, it is relatively easy to dismantle and re-assemble, requiring a couple of special tools but I made them easily from old sockets cut down with an angle grinder. Other than that it needed a big adjustable "C" spanner and a couple of large open enders, one of which was ground down to allow space for the other spanner

I had a clamp for dismantling it all on the bench, but the weight of the car would normally be enough to take the bottom spring in/out.

I think that the most important thing putting it back together was not to rush and make sure that everything was finger tight before thinking about a spanner. The threads are soooooo fine it would be very easy to screw it up !

I will probably write up a "Janet & John do Aprilia suspension" with more detail at some point

NB the steel piston needs to be carefully positioned so that the valve screws cannot come undone, the flanges stop the screws coming out.

 

[simonandjuliet]

A few more ....

I put the bottom spring in first and then the top guide and shock absorber, but I needed to drop the car in order to use the weight to compress the bottom spring and slide the upper guide up in order to easily fit the upper springs and retainers

As above, it has to be finger tight before the spanners

[simonandjuliet]

Last ones ....

A 10mm spanner on 2 flats holds the rod whilst the nuts are done up.

[Mikenoangelo]

Oh yes - I remember it well - the Augusta is very similar!

Mike

[tzf60]

Brilliant as always, Simon!
Please keep the details (and dare I say, the photos  ) coming - it is so informative!
If you ever find the time to create a write-up of the suspension rebuild, I for one will be eternally grateful!
 
Best wishes,
Tim F
 

[simonandjuliet]

Learning point number 9 ..... Don't tighten the bottom guide with the oiler in place

Unfortunately I had to remove the axle again because when tightening the bottom guide (very long extension), the hub carrier jumped and sheared the oiler nut !
Thinking "oh this will be easy" I tried to remove hollow banjo bolt with an "easy-out" but that snapped. Because it now had to be drilled out and the thread cleaned up and it is at the back of the axle and the body is in the way, I thought the safest way was to drop the axle again !

The hardened bolt/easy-out remains were a right pain to remove and took 2 hours, but the axle is sorted and ready to go back on again tomorrow.

The only problem is that I will have to remove the guide and spring again because of potential swarf down the suspension unit .... easier to do on the car

Oh well, live and learn !

[simonandjuliet]

All back on .....

Now it's the steering. A few detail shots showing the system of tracking adjustment. It is altered using the cams at each end of the tie rod.
You set the tracking and then fit the pin. There is another adjustment on the drop-arm, I will do a more detailed post when I set the tracking, for now it is just putting it all together in roughly the right position

I have replaced the old pins with 3mm scroll pins cut down to suit

Another thing that I learned was that there are different arms that fit onto the bottom of the steering box. The one that came with the car is too flat and too low to hit the stops. Fortunately I have some others ( several new spares if anyone is stuck) and painted it up and fitted it, so all working as it should

The flatter one is 2nd series, I think

The silentblocs have been replaced as well.

Another Forumista has also had to replace the silentblocs on his car. Robush were out of stock so we have arranged for some more to be made. They should be available again soon and will cost about £6 each (plus p&p etc)

I will update once they have been done

[simonandjuliet]

Nice little Saturday job - adapting bulb holders ....

The only good,complete headlamps that I have are some very nice Marchals. They are quite domed and very French ! So eminently suitable for my car
Unfortunately I didn't have any good 48 mm bulb holders to fit them, just some very tired and broken old ones

However I do have a few new 42mm holders, so the old ones were cut up and new mounting clips soldered on, before setting in the new holders using plastic metal

Last photo shows the lovely old Mazda bulbs and "bobbly" festoon bulbs fitted. They are not very bright - only 36/45W, but I have 50 years worth , so good to be able to use them

I will see how I get on and may fit some period "driving" lights later on

[chriswgawne]

I love the 'bobbly' festoon bulbs. I have a few put by. Was there a technical reason for the 'bobblyness' - is that a word invented by Mr Bean?
Chris

[peteracs]

I assume the bobbly part acts like fluorescent diffusers you see in offices etc. Gives a more even light, rather than a single bright source.

Peter

[davidwheeler]

Simon, look up "track rod ends" on this forum.   It is now a year since I fitted the Rose joints and they are still a huge improvement on the Robushes.   We should not stick necessarily to originality if safety and driveability can be improved by a little judicious modernisation (a bit like fitting flashing indicators).