I’ve had a few days spare between longish trips out of the country so thought I’d try the spot-weld cutter set that arrived while I was away. Following advice from Andy and Brian I bought both types of tool; the more conventional “cobalt” drill and the cutter. They came as a set, branded Clarke’s.
I found the more conventional drill to be the most effective. The small point in the centre helps keep the drill centred - with some downward pressure applied. The flattish shoulders did a good job of cutting through the metal. The panels often popped apart as I drilled through the first surface. Knowing when to stop drilling was easier than I had expected. It was possible to see the colour of the metal being drilled change from silver to brown when the seam was reached, often accompanied by a puff of rust dust. It would be more difficult without the rust but I doubt I’ll find a rust-free seam on my car! Frequently there was a pop as the panels sprung apart - helped by keeping a gasket scraper wedged in the gap.
The cutter was quite effective - and very sharp, but needed a small pilot hole to be drilled to stop the sprung locating pin from wandering. The disadvantage of the cutter seems to be that it leaves the weld in place so that it has to be ground off after the panels are separated.
The first picture shows the results of using the drill. You can just see the loosened rusty flange underneath the top panel with the drill holes in it. The second picture shows the results of the cutter, with the circles of metal still in place. The third picture shows the set of cutters in their metal box.
I’ll hopefully be able to complete the removal of the back panel and valance when I’m back in December. Will post some pictures then.
Well done Norman,
The good news is both worked and look to have been relatively easy to use with minimal damage.
Ever onward and upwards!
Brian
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