Progress Report on Fulvia S2 rebuild

[nthomas1]

My rebuild work will be on hold for most of the next 3 months, so I thought I’d provide a brief recap of progress so far as many of you on the Forum have asked how things are going.  The car as it stands now is shown in the first two of the three pictures attached.

I have stripped the car of its interior and glass, and have removed the bonnet, boot lid and doors so that they can be worked on separately.  I’ve also removed the dashboard and surrounding trim. I have de-rusted and treated the interior floorpan and wheel arches and much of the underside of the car.  The lower surfaces of the bonnet and boot lid have been de-rusted and painted, see third picture.  I spent a lot of time on the external weld flanges - removing paint, grinding off rust, and getting into the gaps with narrow wire brushes and this abrasive disks on a Dremel.  After applying rust converter I’ve painted each of the flanges.  The first picture shows the front end  of the car - where the weld flanges have been treated, but there’s more work to be done on the internal surfaces.

I’ve recently been focused on the rear end of the car as any of you reading my recent posts about rear panels and rear valances will have seen.   I bought a new rear panel, lower rear valance and LH inner sill repair section from David Ashworth, and a driver-side front floorpan from the Netherlands.  I think I’ve found a bodyshop here in Lancashire that I feel comfortable trusting the welding work to.  I have quite a bit of work left to do on the sills and edges of the wheel arches. I’m looking forward to the time when the new coating of Bianco Saratoga can be applied.

I’ve taken my old seats to Brian Cates in Bournemouth.  He has already supplied door cards, front and rear trim and parcel shelf.  In October I’ll be collecting the re-trimmed seats, headliner, carpets and boot mat.  Through the winter I’ll work on cleaning and painting many of the parts  removed from the car - such as the seat frames and runners.  I’ll also take a stab at re-facing the wooden dashboard.

I have three decision points looming;
1) Whether to remove the fuel tank and either replace it or have it refurbished.  It looks like it has been patched in a few places.  Frankly, as a novice, I’m nervous about doing this as it looks a daunting task.  But then, removing the windscreen seemed a daunting task but I managed it somehow!
2) Whether to stay with the steel wheels for originality.  They’ll need re-finishing as they have been (poorly) painted black, and in the case of the spare wheel, white.  Or do I fit the set of Flavia Cromodoras that I bought before I even bought the car?   They’ll need refurbishing if I go down that route.
3) Whether to stay with the bumper-less look or re-fit the bumpers that came with the car.  I’m angling towards bumper-less, and have already acquired a pair of HF-style covers for the front bumper mountings.  I’ll have to decide how to handle the front sidelights - I’m leaning towards fitting the lenses directly to the bodywork.  I have a Vitaloni chrome mirror for the front wing and I quite fancy some black “Lancia Italia” decals for the leading edge of the bonnet. I’m not trying to make the car look like an HF, but I’d like it to have it’s own personality, and it was rallied in a former life!

I’m not looking for answers to these questions, but just wanted to share with you what I’m thinking about.  Of course views are always welcome.

Overall, I have enjoyed immensely working on the car and learning some of the basic skills. The challenge of working without mains electricity has slowed me down on some things but I feel I’m managing OK so far with my gaggle of 18v batteries.  The advice and encouragement that I’ve received from other Forum members has been outstanding and I thank you all for that. 

[frankxhv773t]

That's going to be a lovely car when finished Norman. As you have both sets of wheels why do you have to choose. The Cromadoras are going to suite the look you are after but it's always handy to have a second set of wheels especially if you are likely to use it in the winter.

[nthomas1]

That's good advice Frank.  I might just do that.

[fay66]

Well done Norman, your work looks very professional, can hardly wait to see it finished.
Personally I'm not keen on no bumpers although Fulvia Coupes do look good without bumpers, or even better with 1/4 bumpers, but think of all your lovely restoration work vulnerable to the slightest knock from a careless parker when there are no bumpers fitted

Brian
8227

[nistri]

To my view bumpers are nice (if in good condition), complete the car originality and provide a touch of class, Andrea. PS: Without bumpers how is the registration plate illuminated at night?

[nthomas1]

To my view bumpers are nice (if in good condition), complete the car originality and provide a touch of class, Andrea. PS: Without bumpers how is the registration plate illuminated at night?

Andrea - I don't believe the front number plate is illuminated even with bumpers fitted.  For the rear plate I would have to fit lamps either side of the plate - similar to those fitted to the HF.

[the.cern]

That is looking so good!!!

[davidwheeler]

ke the tank out!   It is not difficult and it would be a shame to spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar.

[nthomas1]

ke the tank out!   It is not difficult and it would be a shame to spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar.

OK David - I'll give it a go.  Is there anything I need to watch out for while doing it?  I have never undertaken anything like this before!

[davidwheeler]

I seem to remember taking a tank out just by undoing the bolts and lifting but it was a long time ago so if anyone else knows any better...  At least all the connections are on the top so easily accessible.

[lancialulu]

you may still need to reuse the drain plug/internal filter (if it is still there) in which case you need to undo the drain plug which could be stuck. Given your tank has had some work on it then it should come out but beware that unless it comes out completely the residual fue;l will spray out horizontally and not into any container.

Generally the gauze filter will have rotted and you can use the taller version of this

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/25336/i/drag-specialties-clear-fuel-filter-replacement-element

Which you can find in some motor stores as a pack of 3!

[fay66]

you may still need to reuse the drain plug/internal filter (if it is still there) in which case you need to undo the drain plug which could be stuck. Given your tank has had some work on it then it should come out but beware that unless it comes out completely the residual fue;l will spray out horizontally and not into any container.

Generally the gauze filter will have rotted and you can use the taller version of this

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/25336/i/drag-specialties-clear-fuel-filter-replacement-element

Which you can find in some motor stores as a pack of 3!

I know it's a long time ago but mine came from omicron.

Brian
8227

[lancialulu]

Guess you could try Omicron but this was a cheap and invisible solution!

[the.cern]

you may still need to reuse the drain plug/internal filter (if it is still there) in which case you need to undo the drain plug which could be stuck. Given your tank has had some work on it then it should come out but beware that unless it comes out completely the residual fue;l will spray out horizontally and not into any container.

Generally the gauze filter will have rotted and you can use the taller version of this

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/25336/i/drag-specialties-clear-fuel-filter-replacement-element

Which you can find in some motor stores as a pack of 3!

Or Norman, if you have a few hours to fritter away and you want to drive yourself to the verge of insanity, you can have a go at making your own!!!! Have a look at this, the post of 19th February is the relevant one .... http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2928.360

Good luck with it whichever way you go. I am enjoying reading about your efforts, please keep posting.

                                                           Andy

[nthomas1]

If I had Andy’s range of technical skills - from Southend Pier trains to micro-brazing - I’d be in better shape for the task in hand!  As a first step to removing the tank I’ve researched the subject with the parts manual and previous LMC forum threads.  It appears that there are seven steps to removing the tank:
1) Empty the fuel. 
I’ve obtained a siphon and some fuel cans so am ready to start (albeit I’m two thousand miles away from the car for the next few weeks).
2) Disconnect the filler pipe from the tank. 
Research says that the “brass” nut might take some shifting, and that fastening a jubilee clip and using a “C” spanner may be the best way to shift it.  Also WD40 on the thread.  Sounds like I’ll need a square section seal when I refit it.  Apparently the large seal that fits in the front S2 brake caliper is the same size and has been used by others with success.
3) Remove the filler pipe.
I haven’t seen any references to how it is secured (if at all) to the metal shroud under the filler flap.  Perhaps it just pulls through?
4) Remove sender.
From the parts manual it looks like there are 8 bolts holding it in place.
5) Detach fuel feed pipe.
I can’t see any references to this and it isn’t shown in the parts manual.  Hopefully the method for detaching it will be obvious when I see it.
6) Remove drain plug (could be done after the tank is removed),
Sounds like I need a 14mm sump wrench - presumably hex?  I’m told it might take some effort to free it.  The details of the in-tank filter are quite comprehensive in this forum thread and others, with plenty of hints and tips. I’ll stop well short of trying to emulate Andy’s fabrication of the filter cage. 
7) Remove the bolts holding the tank in place.
Looks from the parts manual like there should be 10 bolts.  Forum advice warns that drilling may be necessary if some of the bolts won’t budge - but I’m used to that by now!.

All hints and tips welcome as always!