frankxhv773t
Permanent resident
Posts: 2238
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« Reply #15 on: 09 May, 2017, 08:08:19 PM » |
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I have a feeling the old Autocar road tests included a ride height figure on the dimensions diagram. Might this be a source of information?
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nistri
Megaposter
Posts: 564
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« Reply #16 on: 10 May, 2017, 05:50:57 AM » |
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A simple, rough, yet very empirical way of telling if the ride height is OK, is to see if one can place his hand vertically between the top of the tyre (correct size: 165/80/14) and the highest point of the rim of the wheel arch. Many Fulvias are riding too low. Andrea
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Andrea Nistri
Ardea S2
Appia S2
Fulvia GTE
Fulvia Sport 1.3 S
Fulvia Montecarlo
Fulvia Coupe 1.3 S
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lancialulu
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« Reply #17 on: 10 May, 2017, 07:18:05 AM » |
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I have a feeling the old Autocar road tests included a ride height figure on the dimensions diagram. Might this be a source of information?
The gold portfolio MOTOR test pg 85 has some test data giving ground clearance under front suspension 5.5" and some height datum points for a S1 coupe (14x145 tyres): Top front bumper 15.75" underside front bumper 11.5" Top rear bumper 17.5" Bottom rear bumper 15" Bottom of door to ground 11.75" I think the underside of the front bumper might be under the number plate..... This is fine but my cars do not have bumpers..... etc etc |
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
Lancias:
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 Fulvia Sport 1600
1983 HPE VX
1988 Delta 1.6GTie
1998 Zeta 21. 12v
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #18 on: 10 May, 2017, 07:28:23 AM » |
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Thanks for all the tips on ride height. I'll do some further checking when I get back to the UK, and will be sure to remove the bodies from the boot first!
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #19 on: 05 July, 2017, 07:04:03 PM » |
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Thanks to all who have commented. After much thought I've decided to go ahead with the removal of the rolling subframe. It's way beyond anything I've ever done before! So far I've disconnected the cooling system, all electrics, and the choke and clutch linkages. In the next few days I'll have a go at disconnecting the fuel feed (looks straightforward), and then the brake lines (if I can work out which to disconnect) and the heater pipes (ditto). From searching the web and various forums I've found half a dozen different designs of supports for the front end of the car and I'm opting to make one out of strong timber - supporting the car by the top subframe extension mounts, braced across the wheel arch openings, and supported on 100 or 125mm castors. I have a couple of nephews who will help me with the lifting. I have also been getting back to bare metal on the rear of the front panel and valance. Getting the subframe/engine out will enable much better access to complete this task. Onward and upward.
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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Neil
Permanent resident
Posts: 1316
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« Reply #20 on: 05 July, 2017, 09:59:43 PM » |
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Norm, don't forget the steering connection, one bolt on the split joint, use cable ties to hold the rubber boot together to make it easier. You should be able to unbolt the front callipers from the hubs tie them up and then you can leave the hydraulic hoses untouched.
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Neil
386
1973 Fulvia S2 1.3
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the.cern
Permanent resident
Posts: 1494
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« Reply #21 on: 06 July, 2017, 02:54:53 AM » |
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Sounds like fun ..... !!!
Just a comment on the castors ...... I have, over the years come to the conclusion that any castors for a job like this should have steel wheels and brakes!!
Good luck,
Andy
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SanRemo78
Rebel Poster
Posts: 838
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« Reply #22 on: 06 July, 2017, 07:19:06 AM » |
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Depends on the floor surface, nylon wheels are a good compromise but a locking faclilty is essential!
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simonandjuliet
Permanent resident
Posts: 2556
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« Reply #23 on: 06 July, 2017, 08:31:11 AM » |
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Do you want the dimensions and plans for the box section repair panels, if you do I can dig them out and post pictures?
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AmilcarCGS, ApriliaCabrio,S2Aprilia, 2xArdea c'cino,S4 Ardea, Appia c'cino, Appia f'cino,B20s4,R4 Sinpar, R4 Rodeo, 65 Moke, 3xR60 Tractor, 2xToselli 78, Moto Guzzi Ercole,LR Defender, Mini ALL4 JCW, Moto Guzzi Cardellino, Fulvia GT, RE Himalayan
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #24 on: 06 July, 2017, 10:04:38 AM » |
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Do you want the dimensions and plans for the box section repair panels, if you do I can dig them out and post pictures?
Thanks Simon - I've already bought a pair of mounting boxes. |
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #25 on: 06 July, 2017, 12:58:07 PM » |
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Norm, don't forget the steering connection, one bolt on the split joint, use cable ties to hold the rubber boot together to make it easier. You should be able to unbolt the front callipers from the hubs tie them up and then you can leave the hydraulic hoses untouched.
I hadn't thought of that option with the callipers Neil. Then I'd only have to disconnect the thick hose running from the Servo. Can't find that in TAV at first look though! |
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #26 on: 06 July, 2017, 01:01:52 PM » |
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Heater pipes removed this morning. I have to say I'm enjoying this process of disconnecting things before removing the subframe/engine. It's a great way for a beginner like me to better understand how the Fulvia works. Poring over the TAV parts diagrams and physically handling each component is educational and quite satisfying! I can also see how much more quickly the jobs could be done a second time round, thanks to increased knowledge, plus no need to take the multitude of photographs, and probably less time labelling cables. I'm sure I'm preaching to the converted.
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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davidwheeler
Permanent resident
Posts: 1483
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« Reply #27 on: 06 July, 2017, 07:04:55 PM » |
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Actually to extract the engine/subframe from my S2 Sport, I made a lenght of 2"x4" or thereabouts to fit across the front of the engine compartment with pads about 6"x3" to fit under the wings, tied it to the front to stop it shifting and then lifted the car off the subframe with a block and tackle. Much easier than trying to jack it up!
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David Wheeler. Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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JollyClubUK
Lapsed
Megaposter
Posts: 237
1971 Fulvia S2 1.3s fast road spec
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« Reply #28 on: 06 January, 2023, 07:30:45 PM » |
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That brochure shot is strange. I've never seen a Fulvia sitting that level unless it's been lowered slightly for track use. Most Fulvias have a nose down attitude. Here's a photo of mine. The suspension has never been touched since I've had it and as you can see it sits higher at the back. It's exaggerated slightly by having lower profile tyres so it wouldn't be any good me giving you any measurements.
I think now I have changed the tyre size 175/65/14 I have the correct stance for Stan’s old Fulvia. |
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