Hot running Sport

[Paul Greenway]

 A couple of weeks ago in hot weather and traffic congestion I noticed my 1600 Sport's temperature gauge starting to rise, eventually hitting the underside of the red. At this point the traffic started to flow freely and the gauge dropped  staying in a position between the halfway and three quarter point. When I got it home there was no evidence of any water coming from the overflow or anywhere else and once cooled down I checked the level in the radiator and it was fine.
The following week I took it out again and despite no real traffic problems the gauge rose then wallowed about between half & three quarters, not venturing near the red nor lower than halfway.
The car runs well- the same as always but prior to the first issue the temperature gauge always hung around the halfway point in all conditions.
I'm not that mechanically minded, nor gifted and I don't really want to take to a garage if there is perhaps a simple solution.
Any ideas would be most welcome, thanks.

Paul.

[peterbaker]

Fulvia, Im thinking a sticking thermostate.

[fay66]

 A couple of weeks ago in hot weather and traffic congestion I noticed my 1600 Sport's temperature gauge starting to rise, eventually hitting the underside of the red. At this point the traffic started to flow freely and the gauge dropped  staying in a position between the halfway and three quarter point. When I got it home there was no evidence of any water coming from the overflow or anywhere else and once cooled down I checked the level in the radiator and it was fine.
The following week I took it out again and despite no real traffic problems the gauge rose then wallowed about between half & three quarters, not venturing near the red nor lower than halfway.
The car runs well- the same as always but prior to the first issue the temperature gauge always hung around the halfway point in all conditions.
I'm not that mechanically minded, nor gifted and I don't really want to take to a garage if there is perhaps a simple solution.
Any ideas would be most welcome, thanks.

Paul.E

I'd be with peter on this , but 'Fay's ' water temperature gauge has always operated in this range, it used to worry the life out of me as like you Paul there was no sign of coolant loss.
I eventually bought myself a digital infrared point and shoot temperature gun, this finally proved that there was nothing wrong with the cooling system, just a pessimistic temperature gauge.
Brian
82271

[lancialulu]

Are you sure the electric fan is cutting in? It cannot normally be heard while driving. This can be checked by letting the car idle for 10-15 minutes on the drive on a warmish day. Sooner or later it will have to cut it. If the temperature gauge is going high after this period and the fan has not cut in then this is where to look. Fuse, relay, earths then rad switch in that order.

[stanley sweet]

The answer will be in the answers above. At some point you might want to consider what I did - run a couple of wires back from the fan switch to a switch in the car to operate it manually. I've never like the idea of  finding out that the fan isn't working until it's too late. Yes, I know the switch on the dash could pack up but it gives me peace of mind to flick it on sometimes in traffic just to hear the satisfying whir. Also, if the switch failed I can just pull the wires off the back and tape them together. Mine runs with the needle half way no matter what and I very rarely use the fan. Another thing I still have in my toolbox as a result of a failed fan on an old BX is a piece of wire with crocodile clips on the end. It bridged the fan switch and although it meant the fan was running all the time saw us through a French holiday and home again. Simple little emergency device to get you out of trouble.

[nistri]

The operation of the fan can be checked in less than 10 seconds by placing a small screwdriver across the temperature sensor terminals at the bottom of the radiator. The fan should start immediately. It is advisable to test this at every service. Andrea

[lancialulu]

The operation of the fan can be checked in less than 10 seconds by placing a small screwdriver across the temperature sensor terminals at the bottom of the radiator. The fan should start immediately. It is advisable to test this at every service. Andrea

not sure this tests the operation of the sensor itself....

[Paul Greenway]

Thanks everyone for your prompt responses, I will have a tinker this weekend and hopefully identify the problem.
Like I said it always ran slightly under midway previously so I require to determine what has changed.

[nistri]

Hi Tim, I have yet to see a case of a failed sensor in the Fulvia radiator. Usually the problem of inoperative fan is in the wiring and most often in the in-line fuse and holder,  Andrea

[lancialulu]

Hi Tim, I have yet to see a case of a failed sensor in the Fulvia radiator. Usually the problem of inoperative fan is in the wiring and most often in the in-line fuse and holder,  Andrea

Hi Andrea. I have once seen a failed sensor on a Fulvia but have had a failed sensor also on a Stratos replica ( beta monte carlo rad) and Lancia Gamma both with same set up to Fulvia.

[Paul Greenway]

Took her out again for a 15 mile spin, temp gauge got up to three quarters mark so when I arrived home I let her idle on the drive- the fan is not cutting in, hopefully it's a simple fix!
I'll get my mechanic friend to resolve whilst I'm away.

[neil-yaj396]

Probably just needs a new thermostat. My Beta ate three in as many years.

[Paul Greenway]

 Having been away for a few weeks, I have returned to get the Fulvia ready for the Welsh weekend. The hot running issue is the radiator fan switch at the bottom of the radiator.

Additionally the exhaust has been rattling under acceleration & when caught in the wrong gear so I requested my local mechanic friend to investigate. His response was it requires a strap to support the exhaust centre box and rear load sensor for brakes, small link from centre of axle to load sensor arm. Don't exactly know what he is referring to with the latter- can anyone decipher/understand and more to the point does anyone know where I can get all these parts including the rad fan switch within the next week before the event?

i have already sent this query to Omicron.

All advice greatly appreciated, thanks.

[Sliding Pillar]

This is the data for the rear brake balance limiter valve.
(Out of interest the first vehicle ever to be fitted with this device was the Superjolly)

[frankxhv773t]

"rear load sensor for brakes, small link from centre of axle to load sensor arm. Don't exactly know what he is referring to"

 It's an oily bit under the back of the car that adjust the amount of braking force at the back of the car according to how much weight is on the back. It sounds as though yours hasn't got the arm that connects the axle to the relevant hydraulic valve.