Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress

[nthomas1]

I started cleaning up the window runners and quarter lights today.  I’ve removed the old quarter light seals as I have new ones on order.  I damaged the original ones while drilling out the three bolts that secured the bottom edge of the quarter light frames to the top of the doors.  The bolts had rusted solid both sides and I had to drill down through the small openings in the lower edge of the seals - quite a tricky thing to do and with inevitable damage.  The seals are a bit ropey in other areas so it will be good to fit new ones.   I’ve also ordered replacements for all of the u-channel  seals and scraper seals.

The two rear window glass runners are in poor condition at their bottom ends.  Rust is so bad that the bracket of one has come adrift, and it is not possible on either runner to discern what the actual profile of the end of the runner should be (square, or angled like the other end), and I can’t tell how long the runners should be overall. I will make up a couple of short matching u-shaped sections and have them welded in place once I know the dimensions.  If anybody can help with a photograph that shows the profile, and can provide the overall length (see my picture below) I’d be very grateful.

The other problem I encountered is that one of the long forward runners has been welded at some stage, and shows very poor workmanship with globs of weld.  The build-up is such that the correct channel seal will not fit.  A previous owner had replaced the top half of the length of seal with a non-original much shallower seal that was a very poor fit.  I’ll see how much of the build-up I can grind off while still retaining enough strength.  I’m guessing a replacement part would be hard to find.

It’s good to be working on the refurbishment of my boxes of parts now that welding on the body and closures is complete!

[DavidLaver]

Am enjoying the archaeology.

Grinding the blobby weld - to my mind that's not something to fret over.  Either you'll be able to grind enough away for a seal to fit, or it falls apart and needs welding again.  Perhaps that job includes cutting a bit out and letting some new metal in.   Perhaps even if able to grind enough away I'd give it a good wiggle to be sure its still strong.

Are you a "keep everything possible" person or looking to "source better bits"?

As an aside here's a recent example of conservation.  Not sure if they bottled the air out the tyres to re-use but I bet they thought about it.

http://www.julianparkerltd.uk/the-1928-fabric-bodied-austin-7/

http://www.julianparkerltd.uk

https://www.facebook.com/JulianParkerLimited/

[nthomas1]

Some impressive work there in that rebuild David. 

In answer to your question I'm trying to make the right decision at each stage.  I'm keeping parts where I can, but buying new if the existing part is too poor for refurbishment.  My budget was blown long ago!

[nthomas1]

I’ve been continuing with the clean-up of the engine bay. Almost complete now - just the top right surface left to do. See first two pictures.

Refurbishment of my boxes of parts is proceeding quite well. I’ve taken a bunch of stuff back to bare metal and then etch primed: heater box, front bumper brackets, rear window runners, door jamb plates, and bonnet hinge strengtheners. I still have some patching to do to the window runners and one of the door jamb plates then all of this can be painted.

I’m somewhat worried about the painting of the car. I now have a quote and will be discussing it with the paintshop early this week. But reading Simon’s comments on his HF thread about colour matching have made me very nervous!  I want to keep the car in its original colour Bianco Saratoga, and I’ve found the following paint codes:
- Max Meyer 1.306.1435
- Lechler 1329
- Glasurit 170 ( which I think is Lancia’s code)

Are there any hints and tips for my discussion with the paint shop?  I know next to nothing about car paint and have heard or read terms such as cellulose, water-based and twin-pack bandied around but I don’t know how these relate to current paint technology. With regard to colour matching I was hoping to just be able to quote the colour codes as mentioned above. I don’t want the colour to be spectro-matched to the existing colour as the car has been resprayed by a previous owner and I don’t know how accurate it is. Sometimes the colour seems to me to have a slight greenish caste to it. I don’t know how “pure” a white Bianco Saratoga should be. I didn’t get that same impression with other white Fulvias like Tim’s, or Brian’s at last year’s AGM, but then again I don’t known if they stayed with original colour.

From that stream of consciousness I guess my key question to other forum members is how do I get closest to original 1973 S2 Coupe Bianco Saratoga color!  It’s a substantial outlay so I’d like to get it right!

[fay66]

Norman,
Amazed at the quality you're achieving.
Don't wish to cause my confusion but my Fulvia Tavoli which appears to have been updated to1/1976, shows Bianco Saratoga synthetique codes as
lancia 6980031
Max Meyer 1.346.1435.
With no reference of a application by Glasurit.
Lechler are not even shown as a supplier.
Brian
8227 

[nthomas1]

Thanks Brian - that's interesting!  I have three independent references to Max Meyer 1.306.1435.  Spoke to the paint shop today and they are planning to use two-pack paint, and will get it from Lechler or Glasurit so I guess the discussion around the Max Meyer option is now moot.

I'm still interested in any feedback on paint types.  Can anybody confirm that two-pack is the right type to use?

Also, any comments on Bianco Saratoga?  As I mentioned above, a number of white Fulvias that I've seen appear to be in a "bright" white, rather than the somewhat cream-ish colour that my car is currently finished in.  I bought a small touch-up bottle of Bianco Saratoga a while ago and that appears similar to my cars cream-ish colour.  Does anybody out there have a Series 2 Coupe in original Bianco Saratoga?

Has anybody used a white from a non-Lancia make?

The car was wheeled to the prep-area of the paint shop this morning.

[lancialulu]

Norman

My HF was painted Bianco Saratoga 2 pack. I have the left over.... There is no green tinge to it, but it is not pure white. It has a lot of black in it! search on line and you might find a Lechler car paint colour database. that goes back to the 1940's.

If you can get it in one pack which I think Lechler have a recipe for that is closer to the original finish of cellulose, but having said that I am happy with my 2 pack (dont have the code to hand) which has lasted well for last 12 years.

Make sure the body shop takes time to "shape" the car for optimum results...

[simonandjuliet]

Very exciting stage !

I love the Bianca Saratoga/black combination.

[nthomas1]

Thanks for that information Tim.  I've talked a lot with the painter about the process of blending in the new metal and I'm optimistic that he will do a good job.  He's happy for me to stop by the workshop every day so I'll be able to keep a close eye on it.

Yes, Simon, an exciting stage!  My first S2 coupe which I owned in the late 1970s was also Bianco Saratoga - but with blue cloth. That was an amazing combination, but I'm looking forward to doing this one in black.  I have a complete new interior (recovered seats, parcel shelf, door cards, footwell panels and rear trim panels, carpet and off-white headliner.  I've already refurbished the dashboard which I explained in detail in a previous post.  I still have to refurbish the steering wheel and re-line the glove box.

I refitted the bonnet strengthening brackets this morning after de-rusting and painting them.  It's funny how much satisfaction you can get from small details!

[nthomas1]

While the car is in the paint shop I thought I'd take another look at the seat tilt mechanisms.  Only one of the four is in really poor condition so I thought I'd try to disassemble it so that I could take the parts to a metal finisher to see what re-chroming would cost. At the same time I'm continuing the search for a replacement in better condition.

I managed to remove the spring quite easily but the two main portions do not easily come apart.  A chap from Slovenia sent me some pictures of his re-chromed components but he can't recall how (10 years ago) he took the two components apart - other than that he had to do some grinding on the arrowed part B in the attached picture. I can see how metal could be ground off but I don't know how I would refit them.  Has anybody out there done this?

While scratching my head about this I took a few minutes off to fit a Fulvia vinyl banner to the garage wall.  Bought it quite cheaply on Ebay.  The company that provided it now also sells a version with a cutaway Fulvia picture.   Also thought you might like to see my "Aurelia" inspirational nitrile gloves!

   

[stanley sweet]

I've seen those signs on ebay. Looks to be good quality - might be tempted. Depending on how wide your garage is you might want to stick some kind of pads on the wall to protect your doors when you open them. Be a shame to scrape the edge by accident after all this work. My garage is quite narrow and very easy to hit the door edges but I've always had a big piece of polystyrene taped to the wall which has prevented any damage. I recently installed my highly sophisticated 'tennis ball on a string' parking aid. As long as the ball slides along the passenger windows I'm at the perfect distance. With the big tumblehome on a Fulvia, no passenger mirror plus the extra width of the wheelarch extensions I have I always found it a bit nervewracking. Your Fulvia looks like it will be a little gem when it's all back together.

[nthomas1]

That's good advice Stanley.  I have some thick black foam floor tiles that I'll cut into strips and mount on the wall.

I've been refurbishing the engine bay components (air box, heater air intake, radiator) and having a look to see how sound the welded brackets are on the back of my bumpers.  I've got two front bumpers but neither has the bolt-on side brackets - see 31 and 32 on the Tav diagram below.  Does anybody know the dimensions for these by any chance?

[D5177_55A]

Hope this helps. I think its part 32 (nearside). The larger, almost square hole would need more space (in the hole) for bumper levelling purposes.

[nthomas1]

Brilliant.  Thank you so much for those dimensions!

[nthomas1]

Some progress in the paint shop.  Very thin layers of filler are being used to smooth the transition from new metal to old, and "shape" the car where necessary. Getting closer to paint!

In the meantime I'm working my way through the boxes of components in the garage and refurbishing them.  The heater air inlet and the carburettor inbox and filter holder have been cleaned and de-rusted and will be painted satin black.  I've just got the radiator and fuel tank out of the garage loft to start work on them next.