Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress

[DavidLaver]

Is there a facility to adjust the quarter light top in and out by moving the bottom? 

THE lesson here is to get it to fit first, then work on the finish...  I wonder how many have spent a fortune on chrome for bits that then don't fit?

[nthomas1]

Is there a facility to adjust the quarter light top in and out by moving the bottom? 

THE lesson here is to get it to fit first, then work on the finish...  I wonder how many have spent a fortune on chrome for bits that then don't fit?

There are two fixings, both to the inner skin of the door.  The top one is very close to the top edge of the door where the quarterlight base is attached with three machine screws, so little or no opportunity for adjustment there.  The bottom fixing could be shimmed with washers, but only in a direction that would pull the top of the quarterlight in (which might make sense on the passenger side if that's where the problem is).  The only way to pivot the top outwards (to address the driver side where greater curvature exists, assuming that is where the problem is) would be to modify the lower fixing bracket that is welded onto the runner channel. I wouldn't want to mess with the bracket.  I guess I'll have to trial fit the runners when I get the car back from the paint shop and see how they it close.  It's just very frustrating to have no idea how great the curvatures should be!

[Neil]

Norman, I have found a spare window winder knob, with the black disk still fitted, it has parted company from the handle, a small split on side, you are welcome to have it.

[nthomas1]

Norman, I have found a spare window winder knob, with the black disk still fitted, it has parted company from the handle, a small split on side, you are welcome to have it.

Thanks Neill  I've pm'd you.

[nthomas1]

That door that I bought on Ebay has proved to be quite a bonanza.  If you've been following this thread you'll know that I only bought the door to get the front window runner and quarter light assembly.  That component proved to be in very good condition and alone was worth what I paid for the door.  I've stripped all of the other parts off the door yielding a stainless steel front cap, an internal door handle and door lock, and window regulator mechanism, all in good condition.  There was  also a door stay and plate that will plug another gap in my part inventory as my car came with only one fitted.  In addition, the rear window runner has come in very handy.  The top and bottom ends were badly corroded but I've been able to use the centre portion to provide a couple of repair sections that can now be welded onto my own two rear runners - both of which were badly corroded at their lower ends - see first picture below.  Other parts from my doors are cleaning up nicely thanks to a lot of elbow grease.

[nthomas1]

Back home after six weeks away so working on the car again.  The paint shop has waited for me to return so that I could inspect the final shaping before the car gets primed.  It is up on a ramp at the moment so I can work on the underfloor for the next few days.  The radiator is back from the specialist and the examination and pressure test revealed that it is in very good shape and not in need of a recore.  I think it may have been replaced by a previous owner.  The specialist painted it for me so it now looks like a new one!

[nthomas1]

The paint shop has completed all shaping and smoothing of the new metal and dressed all imperfections. The joins between old and new metal have all been Tiger-sealed.  While the car has been up on the hoist I have removed all surface rust from the underside and have treated the few areas of discolouration that remained with Jennolite rust converter.  I've been very fortunate that the paint shop has allowed me to work on the car while in their workshop. They've undersealed the underside of the car and the wheel arches with U-Pol under seal, and the car is now ready for its first coat of primer.

[nthomas1]

First primer was applied to the car today - just to the areas that have been worked on in the welding shop. Residual white paint areas have been flatted.  Imperfections will be sorted out next and the car will then go into the spray booth for a full primer coat. 

[SanRemo78]

Looking good Norm!

[Jaydub]

Great progress Norm, won`t be long, keep at it.

[D5177_55A]

Nice job; especially that underside.

[simonandjuliet]

Nearly there !!

It easy to forget how long the journey is - remind yourself what it was like when you first started ....

[nthomas1]

In anticipation of getting the car back and starting the assembly process I’m now looking at the electrical parts.  I’m starting from a zero knowledge base on auto electrics - so will be looking for advice!   The rear lights are in quite good condition - see first picture.  

In order to get them ready for re-fitting I assume that the appropriate steps are:
- Clean (fine emory paper) all bulb holders
- Replace all bulbs …. where do I find the bulb specifications?
- Examine wires for breaks in insulation
- Clean all spade terminals (again, fine emory paper)
Does this make sense and is there anything else I should be doing?

I’m also interested in any hints/tips on the beige bases (TAV 5) where I have two problems:

1) Some of the threaded bosses that receive the machine screws (three out of eight) that hold the outer lens are missing.
These are moulded into the plastic. The second picture, left side, shows an example of where one is missing.
Any suggestions as to how to repair?  I can think of three possible solutions:
    A - Find a source of the bosses and glue/Araldite them in position.  I suspect they are not available!
    B - Pass the existing machine screw through the hole and fasten with a nut
    C - Fill the hole with a hard setting putty (see third picture) and drill to receive a regular screw rather than a machine screw
I'm going to have to use option C for the hole where the plastic has broken away around it!

2) Some of the posts (three out of six)  that are used to fasten the beige bases (TAV 5) to the rear panel of the car are missing.
These are moulded into the plastic with the threaded post projecting from the rear. The second picture, right side, shows an example of where one is missing.
Again, any suggestions as to how repair would be appreciated.  In this case I can think of two possible solutions:
    A - Find a source of the posts and glue/Araldite them in position.  Again, I suspect they are not available!
    B - Fill the hole with a hard setting putty into which a machine screw head has been inserted.

I assume these are quite common problems!

[fay66]

Hi Norman,
For bulb specs see the handbook.
Don't forget to use petroleum jelly on all clean earth points.
Brian
8227
 

[lancialulu]

With all the hard work on the bodywork I would suggest the rear lights some how have to have the correct solution of correct screws and therefore correct mounting threads. You can make a good set out of several broken sets...