Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress

[lancialulu]

The car came with the Facet electric pump shown below, with the see-through fuel filter one side of it and the silver Sytec FreeFlow device the other.  Is that Sytec device also a filter, and, if so, does it make sense to have two?

Also, does the electric fuel pump replace or supplement the standard mechanical one?  I’d assumed the mechanical pump stays connected. 

Finally, Does the electric pump get wired in for continual use, or via a switch so that it is only used to supplement the mechanical pump during engine starting?

Help with all of this much appreciated.

You can do either with the electric fuel pump - That facet is good for continuous use or you could plumb it in series with the mech pump (with a switch and (4amp?) in line fuse on the ignition circuit and use it to prime the carbs (always required if car is not being used for weeks at a time). Keep the cheap in line filter (you may wish to replace with new), and the Sytec is a 0-5 psi (or some such) which should be fitted after the electric pump and set to 3 (psi).

[Neil]

Norm, I would be tempted to run via the mechanical pump and remove that additional item and add an in-line filter/regulator such as a FilterKing device, then you can remove that Sytec device too.   In the last year I have fitted an electrical pump to mine near the tank underneath the car to operate when you use the choke to prime the carbs only, works when the check light is on in the instrument panel, then shuts off. The car runs fine with mechanical pump at the correct fuel pressure.   I can send photos if you like later.

[nthomas1]

Tim, thanks for the advice.

Neil, is the Sytec device a pressure regulator then?   Does the Fulvia not have a regulator as standard?    Would certainly appreciate photos of your electric pump installation when you get a chance.  No hurry as I’m working from the boot forward on my car.

[lancialulu]

Yes the Sytec is a regulator. What Neils was suggesting is a “standard post production setup a lot of Fulvia owners have with the use of a Filter King which combines an (accurately adjustable regulator - but you need to the put a temporary gauge on it to set it up) with a filter.

Series 2 cars effectively regulate them selves with the narrow bore return pipe.... early S1 had a regultor as they did not have this return pipe.

I am a fan of those cheap plastic in line filters with old Lancias as they catch the crap an easy to replace when looking used. Carry one in the boot.......

[nistri]

On all my Fulvias and also on the cars of many Fulvia friends we have fitted an electric pump to prime the carbs after a long inactivity (say about 1 week). It is operated by a switch placed near the steering column. This system can also allow using the electric pump in case of failure of the mechanical one. A simple plumbing scheme is attached (electrical wiring omitted), Andrea

[nthomas1]

Tim - thanks for that added information.

Andrea - thanks for the plumbing scheme.  That will come in useful.

[lancialulu]

I personally have found plumbing in series works fine.

[Neil]

Mine is fitted in series, no T-piece required, you could relocate that existing pump to the rear as priming/ backup to leave the engine less cluttered.

[nistri]

If you use the in-series arrangement for the electric pump, you will actually pump through the mechanical pump, not an ideal situation, Andrea

[davidwheeler]

I cannot see any reason to keep the mechanical pump, an electric one and filter/regulator works fine for me (on both my Fulvias and my Aprilia as well)   Sometimes, a little discreet modernisation is worth the effort - such as LED bulbs and also indicators on the older cars.

[nthomas1]

Well I think I have enough information now to decide on a strategy for the fuel supply. Thank you all for your suggestions.

It’s been an interesting process triangulating between the varying views of different experts  Plenty of parameters to perm: mechanical pump only,  or mechanical with electric, or electric only;  plumb electric pump in series or parallel; wire electric pump to be on permanently, or only when starting, or manually controlled; electric pump situated near tank or in engine bay; in-line filter or combined filter/regulator, etc.

Now back to installing the tank, but I couldn’t resist posting a shot of the Jim Clark picture that my son bought me for my birthday.   

[rogerelias]

Just for the record, i run an electric pump, ignition controlled in the engine bay, then a filter king regulator, and have made a blanking plate for the mechanical pump. The pump is a Facet, run it like this for about 12 years never had a problem.

[chriswgawne]

Each of our Aurelias has a Facet electric pump which I fitted at the time the vehicle restoration was near completion.
However, about 5 years ago I decided to retro fit rebuilt OE FISPA mechanical pumps.
The reasons? I had a 3 year old Facet pump fail  on a 4 day European Rally where my 'spares package' in the boot contained  a spare Facet pump to get us quickly on our way. Then later that summer, I had a dynamo issue on a trip in a B20 back home to the Veneto from Basle when it was overcast and raining. Lots of tunnels so lights as well and then the dynamo seemed to start playing up. The weather brightened once we were past Brescia so the wipers could go off but daytime lights are mandatory in Italy so it was a nailbiting last 150km. All ok but it made me rethink the electric  fuel pump issue.
The other small but significant thing which happened around that time was that I found a source for the rubberised pump  membrane material so I could make new diaphragms for the pumps I had on the shelf.
I leave the Facet pumps on the cars  but they are switched and just used for starting after a long period of idleness.
Chris

[Jaydub]

Loving the painting of the legendary Jim Clark! Tidy looking garage Norm. Good work so far.

[nthomas1]

Thanks for the input Roger and Chris.  Glad you like the Jim Clark print Jay!

Today I started the job I’ve been putting off for some considerable time.  If you’ve been following this thread you’ll recall that I started fitting a new headliner about 6 months ago.  Having got the rods and headliner in preliminary position I held off gluing it in place, partly because the weather had turned cold, and partly because I was uneasy about how best to do the stretching of the fabric!

I decided to wait until the spring and see if I could get a local trimmer to take a look at it, but with the Covid 19 situation that’s not possible, and I really want to be able to get on and get the glass back in, so I’ve decided to press ahead on my own.

Today I fixed each of the 4 sides of the roof in turn, starting with the front, then rear, and then the two sides.   I marked the fabric with pencil lines to indicate where to apply the glue.  I used masking tape on the windscreen aperture, but decided it wasn’t really necessary, so just used pencil marks for the rest.   I decanted a small amount of the Alpha AF178 contact adhesive into a jar, and used a narrow brush, about 10mm wide to apply it to both surfaces, being careful to ensure no strings of glue trailing from the brush. Then left it to get touch dry. I’d hoped the adhesive would allow some repositioning time but that wasn’t the case.  Once contact was made there was no budging it, so I had to be very careful.

After pressing the fabric into place I secured it with bulldog clips until dry and then cut off the surplus material.

Tomorrow I’ll tackle the difficult part which is the four corners.  The front two, above the A pillars should be the least difficult.  It’s the rear corners, above the C pillars, that will be hardest as there’s more surplus material there!