Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress

[lancialulu]

sounds ok but draw out a schematic that you are happy with and makes sense to you!!!!

[nistri]

...and to all of us, Andrea

[Jaydub]

Hi Norm, your wiring description sounds correct. Just to clarify.....

Relay pins.
30....12 volt fused feed from starter motor.
87.... feed to inner lamps.
85.... earth to relay bracket fixing screw
86....feed from main beam circuit to operate relay.

[nthomas1]

That's great John, it confirms what I've got.

For Tim and Andrea's benefit here's the before and after sketches.

My only open question is what gauge should the wires be that take power into and out of the relay?

[Jaydub]

Norm, 1.5mm2 cable is sufficient as it`s only switching the relay solenoid, very low current.

[nthomas1]

Fitted the door and window seals on the passenger side. The thick window seal that stretches from base of the A pillar to the base of the B pillar is a tough one to fit into the channel.  

I'd like to see how well the door fits before doing the driver side, as I may need to reposition the gutter rail and vertical channel on the B pillar.  I hope not, as they are riveted in place on my car and I've already had to drill the rivets out once already when I originally stripped the car and don't relish doing it again!

Next challenge is fitting the door while in lockdown and with only my wife to assist.  It occurred to me that the simple jigs I built for assembling the doors could be use as the basis of a rolling jig.  So four lengths of 2x4, some bolts and 4 castors later and I have something that I think will work.  The door sits about 4 cm lower than it needs to for fitting so that I can put small pieces of padded wood under the bottom to align the hinges.

I will get my wife to help hold the door in vertical position while I fasten the hinges but the jig means we won't have to manage the weight of the door.

[nthomas1]

I finished off the passenger side engine bay electrics today, and located the bundle of wires using the correct straps plugged into the bonnet gutter.  Some more work left to do on the driver side: installing an override for the radiator fan motor, upgrading to hazard flashers, and linking inner lamps to outer main beam.

While trying to identify the 9 loose wires hanging down from the dashboard I discovered that the flasher unit for the handbrake and low brake fluid level is missing. It's item 53 on the wiring diagram.  That accounts for 5 of the wires: white, double red and double black.  I've ordered a new flasher unit and thought that fitting it would be all that needs doing. However, Guy (Mayers) stopped by today to lend me a crimping tool, at a socially safe distance of course, and spotted that my brake fluid reservoir is missing the plunger sensor from the top.  Can anybody tell me what that looks like and whether it's something that could be found at an aftermarket supplier?

[nistri]

The plunger for the brake fluid sensor is plastcìic so it never rusts. The best way is to get a really bad 21mm brake master cylinder (at scrap price) from which it should be possible to extract the plunger, Andrea

[Neil]

Norm, do you know what parts you are missing, no. 8 below?

[nthomas1]

Neil, I think it’s just 22, but I don’t have spade connectors on top of the housing or I would have realised earlier that something was missing. I’ll take a closer look tomorrow.

[SanRemo78]

With your hybrid wiring loom (Part S3 on an S2 body) I suspect that part of the loom shouldn't be connected or if at some point the car has had a replacement master cylinder without the internal float and connectors on the top?

Contemporary Fiats have a float arrangement integral with the filler cap, certainly the Beta did too. I don't know if the reservoir cap on your car is screw on though? Didn't look that hard today!

Guy

[lancialulu]

Looking at the back of the reservoir behind the filler cap, it seems that there should be 2 spade terminals for the low fluid  sensing. Your reservoir looks like the normal sort, so I would expect all the internal gubbins to be there.     

[simonandjuliet]

I took some photos when I did the HF mastercyl , you can see the terminals and innards clearly

https://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9921.msg74884#msg74884

If you need any of the small allen screws holding the lid on , let me know, I bought a bucketload ....

[lancialulu]

As you can see from Simon’s photos his spade terminals have been held on by new screws. They are originally riveted on.

It seems you have no option but to take the plastic reservoir off. If you have not rebuilt your master cylinder this is the time to do it, and examine the bore for corrosion. This really means taking off the car. Unless you have a big sturdy vice I would advise trying to lossen the big nut at the front first.

If the master cylinder has been rebuilt then using a takeaway tray to catch the hydraulic fluid with care for any loss or splashes (this can eat traditional paint but 2k resists a bit better), you should be able to just remove the reservoir M3 cap screws. If this has not been taken off ever or for many years these screws have generally been v difficult to get out with 45 years of UK atmosphere /hydraulic fluid Corrosion... Be warned!

[nthomas1]

Thanks for that input Simon and Tim.  It looks like the sensor, part 22 on the TAV, is still in place inside the reservoir.  However the two spade terminals have been removed as you can see from this early picture from when I started stripping the car, with just a small amount of metal left from each, seemingly filed. So yet another one to add to the list of missing and bodged items to be found or fixed!

Just to add insult to injury, my neighbour just balance a metal ladder near my car and it overbalanced putting a dent in my wing top. So my first journey after the rebuild will be back to the paint shop.