Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress

[nthomas1]

Finished most of the electrical work and modifications today:

Indicator Flasher: Replaced the Ford electro-mechanical unit that was hanging loose below the dashboard with a new electronic Flasher, and secured it in place with a mounting  block.
Main Bean Solenoid (controlled the inner headlamps):  Not on the wiring diagram so I suspect a feature of UK-market. Removed the original electro-mechanical unit from under the dashboard.  It had been disconnected and replaced with a modern fuse-bladed Relay behind the right side headlamps.  I assumed it was broken and that’s why it was replaced, but I removed the workings from the housing as I was interested to see how it worked.  Bench-tested it and found it to be working ok (interesting to see an electro-mechanical device in operation), but I’ll stay with the replacement electronic relay.
Inner and Outer Headlamps linked together:  Rewired the inner headlamp Relay, referred to above, so that inner headlamps now come on with outer headlamp main beam.  Disconnected the dashboard switch.
Radiator fan override: Connected an illuminated dashboard switch (the one freed up from inner headlamp duty) to the Coolant Solenoid so that the radiator fan can be manually activated in addition to its thermo-switched activation. Piggy-backed off pin 1 on the Solenoid.
Brake Fluid and Handbrake Flasher (Wiring Diagram item 53): Was missing on my car, so fitted a modern electronic Flasher under the dashboard.
Fuse Panel: all contacts cleaned and checked, and new ceramic fuses fitted.
Unconnected Wires:  Tracked all ten loose wires behind the dash, five of which were for the missing Solenoid (53), and either removed them or terminated with labelled single connector blocks.  
Poor Connections: Replaced a stack of dodgy looking connections across the car with new ones, and replaced four of the connector blocks which were either too dirty to clean or had been overpainted.
Wire Runs: Wires bundled with new wrap-around casings, and hung from bonnet and boot edges with correct cable straps.
Bulbs: Fitted new bulbs to all lights, and new wedge bulbs to all dashboard lights.
Column Stalks: Removed and cleaned.  Connections to be re-soldered thanks to John Whyatt’s help.
Hazard Flasher:  Modern integrated flasher unit with illuminated pull-push switch purchased.  Will fit it beneath the dashboard when I have the lower dash shrouds in place and can see where it would be best to position it.

Many thanks to all the forum members who have given advice, but particularly to John Whyatt (Jaydub),  Neil Sims, and Guy Mayers (SanRemo78) who have coached me through the learning process on car electrics!

[nthomas1]

I've spent most of the last week working on the interior floor.  I've used Noico butyl sound deadener that come in 75cm by 50cm sheets.  The Noico is similar to Dynamat but costs about £1.50 per square foot versus more than £4 for Dynamat.  Reviews tend to favour the Dynamat , but not by very much.  I decided to use the adhesive backing to fix it  down rather than loose laying as it looked like it wouldn't stay put in the front footwells if not secured.

I cut the sheets into smaller sections using paper templates, and rolled them down with a nylon roller, covering all of the rear footwells, the front footwells up to the lower edge of the dash structure, and the gearbox housing. There are some air bubbles but I'm not worrying too much about them as the Noico will be covered with two more layers: the rubber mats, and the carpets.

I also bought a roll of 6mm closed cell foam, and put this over the Noico on the gearbox housing.  It has a self-adhesive backing. I plan to also put it down in the forward portion of the front footwells and on the sills and rear seat base.

The rubber mats needed a lot of cleaning to get rid of the surface discolouration, but Gunk followed by Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber Care did the trick.  New rubber coverings for the sills have arrived so they'll go down next.  

[nthomas1]

Playing around with switches today.  My car had no engine bay light switch and no boot light switch.  Also, the springs in both door-open switches had broken up.  I bought six second hand switches in various conditions.  Although all different part numbers in the TAV they share a number of components: plungers, springs, washers, retaining nuts.  So I have been mixing and matching to make up some good ones.  I've also ordered a length of stainless steel compression spring which I can cut into 18mm sections: it is 5.8mm outside diameter and 0.8mm wire thickness.  A 100mm length costs only £2 so I can try a different size if this doesn't fit.

[nthomas1]

I continued with the fitting of the closed cell foam sound insulation today.  I applied it to both footwells and the driver side sill.  I need to decide how to fit the passenger side as I'd like to still have access to the cable runs. 

The new sill rubber mats arrived as flat sheets that need to be folded and to have cut-outs made for the protrusions in the floor pan.  I've folded them and have them under some heavy weights to try to get a good right angle bend.

[nthomas1]

Lots of fiddly small jobs today: continued the clean up of the switches, painted the pedals, fitted the newly acquired choke lever fastening, and so on. 

I started to fit the inner stainless steel sill strips, the ones that overlap the edge of the rubber mats or carpets.  They were badly scuffed so I had a go at polishing them - something I had researched on the internet over the weekend. I sanded them with 400 grit sandpaper, and then with a succession of finer grits: 800, 1500, 2500, 5000, and 7000.  I finished off with a good rubbing with metal polish. I'm very pleased with the outcome. I didn't eliminate all scratches but the appearance is now ten times better than before. The second picture shows the driver side unpolished and the passenger side after polishing.

I got the windscreen out of the loft and am steeling myself to have a go at fitting it, aided by my diminutive wife who successfully helped me with the rear screen.  Watch this space.   

[nthomas1]

The new rubber sill covers arrived so I've cut them to fit with the aid of some paper templates.  I'll hopefully be able to fit them tomorrow and the floor will then be finished.

[nthomas1]

Well, the closed cell foam soundproofing on the inner sill wasn't a good idea.  The rubber mats need a firmer support structure in order to get a good right angle bend so I spent this morning removing the foam and scraping and rubbing the sill with white spirit to get back to metal. Fortunately I'd only covered the driver side sill.  

Spent the afternoon on some small tasks.  My car never had an engine bay light so I cleaned up and fitted the used light and switch that I bought, and I fitted the external stainless steel trim strips below the rear quarter lights.  

Some of you may recall that I asked a while back about the cover strips for the bonnet edge mouldings that are shown as item 56 in the TAV.  I have never seen a Fulvia with them fitted.  While browsing the Wiring Products catalogue I noticed beading for 97p per metre that looked very similar.  I bought 4 metres, enough to do bonnet and boot (TAV item 55).  It finishes off the bonnet nicely.

I'll fit the rubber sill mats tomorrow and then start on the windscreen if I can steel myself to do it!    

[nthomas1]

Too wet today to roll the car out of the garage to finish off the floor, so I cleaned up the windscreen and refitted the seal where it had come away from the glass.  It's ready for fitting to the car now.

[nthomas1]

Finally finished the floor. 

Fitted the new rubber sill covers today, then put the loose laid rubber mats in place and then the carpets.  Now the rubber mats and carpets will be put back in the loft while I focus on the windscreen, console and dashboard.

[DavidLaver]

I was impressed how tight you got the anti resonance material down.  Nice being able to see the pressing patterns still. 

Lovely result.  Another big item ticked off.

[chriswgawne]

Great work Norman. Its coming together really well. I had a new white S2 Fulvia Coupe back in the day and I reckon the quality of build of your car is better than mine was! I sold mine after 2 years due to cosmetic rust issues and I dread to think what was going on in the sills then........but I promptly bought a silver S3 Coupe as they are such great cars to drive.
You must be getting excited about driving it again now?
Chris

[nthomas1]

Yes Chris - looking forward to getting behind the wheel again!

Today I did a job that I thought would be easier while the windscreen is still out.  I prepared the glovebox for lining.  I had bought some vinyl fabric a while back.  I made paper templates and used them to cut out four pieces of foam board.  I'll cover the board with the fabric.  Before I do that I need to know what cutouts there should be.  I've made one on the right (RHD car so the side furthest from the door) for the two earth connections.  Further back on the same side is a fairly large cutout, shown in my last photograph, with just a single bundle of wires passing through it.  I was wondering if that cutout is for access to the heater control rods. Can anybody tell me if there's a large cutout in the glovebox lining in that location, or is the cutout in the metal largely covered up?  

[Jaydub]

Hi Norm, only saw this request this evening. I will look tomorrow.

John

[nthomas1]

Can anybody explain the purpose of the pin in this picture?  It is in the reverse position for the gear lever. Is it just to offer some resistance as the lever pushes past it to select reverse gear?
 

[lancialulu]

Can anybody explain the purpose of the pin in this picture?  It is in the reverse position for the gear lever. Is it just to offer some resistance as the lever pushes past it to select reverse gear?
 

In theory you should need to push the gear lever down in order to engage reverse so you don't accidentally push the lever forward thinking its first gear and reverse into the car behind. Quite a few of those threaded extensions have broken off in years gone and or mal adjusted. You seem to have something that will give you some protection from accidental reverse...