Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress

[lancialulu]

Guy do you have a pic of the washer jet??

Where do rear fulvia number plate lights go on the front of a Strato's???

[SanRemo78]

Sorry Tim, not yet but I'm led to believe that's the correct part by a ver knowledgeable person.


Number plate light is just visible under the "L" of Lancia on the left side of the car in this pic.

https://www.rallyssimo.it/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/avogvo.jpg

Guy

[DavidLaver]

Brazing or silver solder?  This is basically an advert for a particular material, but gives the idea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uf6J1pmmApk

Lots on the web about and mig tig welding stainless to mild and how particular to be about process and rod. Its not a bit of space rocket, but you don't want to have it corrode or get brittle. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htmxZxkdNWE

Money no object if worried about joining dissimilar materials make the bracket in stainless as well?

[D5177_55A]

I had the same problem with my rear bumper. So I drew up some pans for replacement brackets and had them laser-cut and shaped. Can’t remember the price exactly but it was just shy of £100. Then I got someone to weld them onto the bumper itself. I can’t remember how much that was.

Stephen

[frankxhv773t]

Your rear number plate lights look very familiar from my Beta coupe days. If I'm right the same ones were fitted to Beta Coupes up to at least 1978 and also I think to (Flavia) 2000 coupes. The bulb holders might be common to other lights like indicator side repeaters but aren't they usually attached to the wiring?

[nthomas1]

Frank - yes, you're right.  The holders are normally attached to the wiring but I bought my car de-bumpered and my wires were attached to motorcycle-like lamps fitted to the rear panel.

[lancialulu]

Norman

Maybe you dont want to hear this but I think the following is very good value and New.

https://www.spitline.com/index.php/fanale-luce-targa-carello-lancia-fulvia-coupe-2-serie-fulvia-3-alfa-romeo-duetto-gt-v-2000-bertone.html

Tim

[nthomas1]

Thanks Tim - that does look a good price, but I've just done a deal on a couple of very good used ones complete with bulb holders at a very good price.

This means Guy gets the pick of my current 4 for his Stratos!

[nthomas1]

I’m stuck!

I thought I’d connect the new barrel nipple on the heater valve and check that all the heater controls are working correctly before fitting the windscreen, as access to the rear of the dashboard will  then be much more difficult.

I connected the linkages alright but the valve arm only moved in and out of the valve about 5mm.  I don’t know how far it should move to open and close the valve but without the control rods connected it moved about 10mm which looks more correct. The various linkage rods seemed to work OK so I suspected the problem to be the cable. 

Sure enough, the valve end of the piano wire enters its retaining barrel nipple at an angle and the wire was bending rather than pushing.   The end of the piano wire was bent at 45 degrees after passing through the nipple but couldn’t be straightened with out removal.  The clamp that holds that end of the cable casing is tucked up beside the edge of the glovebox with only about 23mmm of clearance. See second picture  None of my angled screwdrivers would fit so I had to buy one that was only 20mm wide.  A couple of hours fiddling, as the space is so restricted and I managed to undo the clamp, not sure how easy it will be to reconnect!

After straightening the wire, I checked the top control lever again.  It should move freely without the other end of the cable connected, but it didn’t.  It sticks half way across.  I partially removed the lever assembly and could see from below that the piano wire at that end was projecting through its retaining hole and scraping along the lid of the assembly and fouling against a pressed bulge.  You can see the wire and the scratches on the top plate in the centre of my third picture.

There doesn’t seem to be any way to bend the wire so that it doesn’t foul unless you remove the control assembly completely and remove the levers for access to the piano wire.  I disconnected the various electrical connections but hit a roadblock with the other two control cables.  The far end of each are connected with clamps that I can not figure out how to undo.

The second cable (see top of picture 4) is connected at its far end via a clamp that is screwed into a metal plate that appears riveted to the heater box.  There’s only 2 or 3mm between the screw head and the edge of the glovebox.   The third cable loops round to the right and is clamped by a fixing that appears to have no visible method of disconnecting. See my final picture.

Has anybody removed their control assembly and (more importantly!) can remember how they disconnected these cables?  I must be missing something.

[Jaydub]

Hi Norm, the control levers are clamped onto the spindles with grub screws (2.5mm Allen Key). To access the Phillips headed screw at the side of the glove box, I would drill a 10mm hole in the side of the glove box and put the screwdriver through the hole. I think you will have to loosen/remove the controls to reshape the cable/lever. Unfortunately sometimes once bent, piano wire will keep bending again.

Good Luck

[davidwheeler]

It might be worth taking the heater out - as I remember this is a relatively simple matter of undoing four nuts on the engine side of the bulkhead.

[Beckerman67]

 New set of cables available here:

 https://www.ricambilanciafulvia.it/en/spare-parts-body-interior-lancia-fulvia/2264-kit-cavi-comando-scatola-riscaldamento-fulvia-coupe-2serie.html?search_query=scatola%20risc&fast_search=fs

 Delivery will probably €20 though. I've used them twice and delivery times have been very slow!

[Neil]

Hi Norm, I’ll check my spare RHD heater box for the cable connections, I might have a few spare useable cables too.

[nthomas1]

Thanks for the advice chaps.  Drilling a hole in the glove box makes sense for the second cable.  Thanks John. Interestingly I asked a few posts back about the opening in the right side of the glove box.  Without that for access I'd never had got the first cable disconnected!

Omicron have confirmed that they make up cables to suit so I have a source ready. Thanks for the Rosso Corsa tip Robert.

Does anybody have any suggestions for the third cable where no obvious means of fastening is apparent?

David - you may be right about taking the heater box out.  Having just got the console fitted I was hoping to avoid that!

Neil - thanks for doing that. When you're looking at your spare heater box you might be able to see how that third cable clamp is fixed.

 

[eog]

Here is a photograph of the underside of the slider controls