nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #600 on: 17 October, 2020, 10:42:19 PM » |
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David, thanks for your input. The battery only charges to 12 volts so it sounds like it is time to buy a new one. The car is not running yet, so I carry the battery 100 yards to charge it indoors (no power in the garage). It has dropped from 12 to 10.8 volts while I’ve been carrying out electrical checks over the last three days.
I assumed 10.8 volts would be sufficient for testing the headlights, but I guess I was wrong. The wires that carry the current from fuse 7 to fuses 1 and 3 via the solenoids have been checked and all connectors scrupulously cleaned with wire brush and emery paper.
I’ll do the main beam solenoid test tomorrow and then decide how to move forward.
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #601 on: 18 October, 2020, 02:32:58 PM » |
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I labelled the wires in the fuse panel and removed the fuse rack today, and started working my way through the wires, inspecting each and cleaning the connectors. So far just one wire looks problematic. It's been covered in tape which, when removed, reveals three or for breaks in the casing. It will need to be replaced. Tricky, as it is paired with a very thick red wire that may make it beyond my crimping tool's capability!
Interesting to see the design differences between the fuse rack that I've removed and the cleaned up one that I'm replacing it with.
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« Last Edit: 18 October, 2020, 03:01:09 PM by nthomas1 »
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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Jaydub
Megaposter
Posts: 346
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« Reply #602 on: 18 October, 2020, 04:17:50 PM » |
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Hi Norm,
As you know I`ve been rather busy at Silverstone the last 3 days. so had no input on your problems. As david suggested, get a new battery, fully charged as a good datum point. Also bear in mind what I told you in my PM, having a reading of 12 volts doesn`t necessarily mean it will carry the load. You need a working headlamp, or something similar, to check the load carrying capacity of the various circuits.
Have you earthed the green wire at the White connector block from the lighting stalk? That will bypass the stalk contacts we talked about, in case they are not closing when you pull the stalk towards you.
Let me know tomorrow as I have a day at home.
Cheers John
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1600 HF. S2.
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #603 on: 19 October, 2020, 07:00:13 PM » |
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Thanks John. I'll try that green wire earthing test as soon as I have the new fuse rack installed and everything connected up.
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #604 on: 20 October, 2020, 05:48:46 PM » |
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I cleaned all the connectors in the fuse panel today. I found the best approach to be a wire brush, followed by sanding the inner surface with a thin strip of emery paper - using a needle file to slide it backwards and forwards. I then applied heat-shrink tubing, and I replaced the one damaged cable that I'd found. I cleaned up and painted the angled plate that holds the solenoid cluster and then reconnected everything.
I decided to refit the original sidelight solenoid having carefully bench tested it. I can always change over to the CEAM unit if necessary, but the original unit makes testing easier as all connectors are on the front face and are relatively easily accessible.
I can restart the testing of the lighting circuits tomorrow in the knowledge that that all wires are sound and all connectors thoroughly cleaned.
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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simonandjuliet
Permanent resident
Posts: 2556
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« Reply #605 on: 20 October, 2020, 06:33:42 PM » |
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You won't regret the efforts made cleaning connections .... that and proper earths make a huge difference
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AmilcarCGS, ApriliaCabrio,S2Aprilia, 2xArdea c'cino,S4 Ardea, Appia c'cino, Appia f'cino,B20s4,R4 Sinpar, R4 Rodeo, 65 Moke, 3xR60 Tractor, 2xToselli 78, Moto Guzzi Ercole,LR Defender, Mini ALL4 JCW, Moto Guzzi Cardellino, Fulvia GT, RE Himalayan
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Jaydub
Megaposter
Posts: 346
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« Reply #606 on: 20 October, 2020, 07:13:50 PM » |
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That looks brilliant Norm, very neat and lovely clean connections.
Good luck with the testing tomorrow.
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1600 HF. S2.
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Neil
Permanent resident
Posts: 1316
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« Reply #607 on: 20 October, 2020, 07:40:51 PM » |
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Norm, very neat a job I never quite finished to get my up and running in 2013, one day I must tidy the wires in the fuse box, I am sure it will all work brilliantly now.
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Neil
386
1973 Fulvia S2 1.3
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Keithver
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« Reply #608 on: 21 October, 2020, 09:45:11 AM » |
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Hi Norm. I don't know where I found this originally, but came across it in my filing system this morning. You are probably beyond this, but here it is anyway (attached Below). Hope there is something useful in it
Keith
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'72 series 2 Fulvia 1,3s
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #609 on: 21 October, 2020, 12:03:09 PM » |
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Thanks Keith - I do already have that document, and have found it very useful.
Cheers, Norm
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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peteracs
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« Reply #610 on: 23 October, 2020, 10:07:27 PM » |
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Hi Norm
If you still have connection problems, it may be the actual crimp connections which will need the connector replacing. I tend to tin the wire with solder, crimp the connector onto it and then solder the wire to the connector. A bit belt and braces, but makes sure the connection is good with the wire.
Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
Posts: 855
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« Reply #611 on: 24 October, 2020, 03:32:29 PM » |
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Thanks for the advice Peter. Soldering is not a skill that I have, but I've got the equipment so must teach myself.
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire
Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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davidwheeler
Permanent resident
Posts: 1483
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« Reply #612 on: 24 October, 2020, 10:00:57 PM » |
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It is not difficult. Make sure everything is clean, you have flux cored solder and, most important of all, that you get things hot enough, I suggest a Weller 40 watt iron for small jobs like this. The solder should flow freely.
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David Wheeler. Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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Jaydub
Megaposter
Posts: 346
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« Reply #613 on: 25 October, 2020, 09:44:35 AM » |
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Ref. soldering Norm, on some of the older wiring make sure you remove the verdigris that builds up sometimes, get the wire clean and shiny. Also when soldering terminals to cable, heat the terminal NOT the cable.
Good Luck.
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1600 HF. S2.
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andyps
Megaposter
Posts: 331
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« Reply #614 on: 26 October, 2020, 01:05:22 PM » |
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Your fuse block and solenoids look great, the wires on mine are filthy with the colour not being clear with some of them - cleaning them and all the connections is next on my list of jobs to do. One thing I'm still trying to figure though is which solenoid is where, the wiring diagram is completely useless for that without following wires all round the car! Are the solenoids/relays by the fuse board for the lights?
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