Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress

[eog]

Sudden thought - builders and decorator seem to be using this thicker sticky cling film

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/353238435418?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153316-527457-8&mkcid=2&itemid=353238435418&targetid=4584826053363458&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=398226951&mkgroupid=1299622978767076&rlsatarget=pla-4584826053363458&abcId=2145997&merchantid=87779&msclkid=81a026626265103b1cc079d003ca7d7d

maurice

[nthomas1]

Interesting idea Maurice.  I actually have a roll of that.  It's tacky but I'm not sure it would remain in place long term, so will stay with the heavy polythene sheet.

[nthomas1]

I’ve completed the final step in addressing the fuel tank pickup pipe problem.  I cut the end of the copper pipe extension at an angle (like a quill pen) and drilled some holes so that fuel will still flow if the extension were to come loose. I fixed it in place with JB Weld, which is petrol resistant, even in a continually wet environment. I’ve put a support underneath to keep it firmly in place until fully cured.

I removed the oil filler canister so that I could open it up to remove the “time bomb” disintegrating steel mesh that Neale Shepherd warned about.  Access was easier to the two nuts holding the neck in place than to the two that hold the canister to the neck, so I removed the complete assembly.  Tomorrow I’ll try to lever the top off the canister as others have done.

An unpleasant surprise that I noticed when lying on my back under the car was a small pool of oily liquid under the front rear corner of the (empty and dry) fuel tank.  At first I suspected it was brake fluid but the brake lines and connections all look sound.  Then I found signs of it on the shock absorber piston and rubber boot.  The fluid wasn’t there a few days ago and the only activity of the shock absorber would have been while rolling the car in and out of the garage. Interesting that it should fail like that.  So I’m now shopping for new rear shocks. 

[lancialulu]

Weird failure?! Best rear shocks for Fulvia are DeCarbon design that have been licenced but at the mo production has dried up so quite expensive. Konis are available but a) expensive and b) too hard even on their softest setting. Spax Krypton range work well as you can set them quite soft or hard depending on your driving style.

[nthomas1]

Thanks Tim - I'll take a look at options.   AVO have been suggested as well.

[nthomas1]

An interesting morning.  Took the lid off the oil filler can, not that easy to do.  With the can clamped, the first stage was levering up the metal lip by using a screwdriver resting against the filer cap, which required substantial force.  That got the lip about half way open.  Then I used the square shaft of a metal scraper bar held against the filler cap to get the correct angle for the screwdriver to lever the lip all the way clear. I’ll need to tidy the edge up with a file before refitting.

To remove the core, three spot welds in the base had to be cut through.  I don’t know if they are standard as I’ve seen no mention of them on previous posts on this subject.  There was no wire inside, but a mass of rusty metal flakes from the surface of the core and can, so I'm glad I took the trouble to investigate.  Time to get the phosphate out and see just how bad the underlying metal is.

[nistri]

Impressive pictures of the oil canister, although not an isolated case. It can readily occur when the engine does not get hot (short trips, cold winter without front grille protection, lack of thermostat, etc). Andrea

[nthomas1]

Fitted the handbrake linkage today.  I decided first to check the adjustment of the shoes. I’ve never done this before, and the repair manual is a bit vague on the procedure.  I’ve included some pictures for anybody else doing the job for the first time. 

I found the inspection holes in the disk/drum but it was hard to see anything inside as everything was black with brake dust!  With a torch I investigated the area around the 6 o’clock position, and found the adjuster wheels at about 6:30.  Probing carefully a with a rag over the end of a screwdriver revealed the silver finish of the adjustment wheels.

The first picture below shows (on the right side of the inspection hole) one of the raised bars on the surface of the wheel.  It is parallel to the ground, and the wheel itself is vertical, at right angles to the side of the car.  There are raised bars like this every seven millimetres or thereabouts, and it is against these that a flat screwdriver can be applied to lever the wheel upwards or downwards.

I temporarily removed the disk brake caliper assemblies so that any drag on the disk wouldn’t mask the braking effect of the handbrake shoes.

I wasn’t sure which way to turn the adjustment wheel to fully apply the shoes so rotated the wheel fully downwards, using a flat bladed screwdriver levered against the edge of the inspection hole.  That actually fully disengaged the shoes, so I then rotated the wheel all the way up, and that applied the shoes fully.  Then backed off 4 notches per the manual, and checked that the wheel spun freely.

I then got under the car and fitted the connecting rod and lower shroud under the gear lever, and connected this up to the cross cable at the rear. So all done and dusted. 

[Keithver]

Hi Norm. I think I'll open my oil canister today after seeing what came out of yours and others.
Your handbrake lever. Did it have the black handle originally or is it something that you have added. I've looked at mine and wondered if it was correct without a handle. Maybe the thought was that in sunny South Africa, it wasn't needed

[Jaydub]

Norm, presumably after adjusting the handbrake shoes you then adjusted the cable to lock the discs with about 4 notches of the handbrake being applied.

[nthomas1]

That was my intention John but poor light stopped play, so it’s on the snag list now!

[nthomas1]

Keith - the black plastic handbrake grip was standard on UK spec Series 2 and 3.

[nthomas1]

The oil filler can needed quite a bit of work to get the internal surfaces back to bare metal. Then I fitted the core section back into the cannister and tapped the lip down all round, and then a couple of coats of smooth black Hammerite paint.  Installed it back in the car using new gaskets.

Sanded and sprayed the wiper bases, trim rings and domed nuts, and fitted the wiper assemblies to the car.  

In readiness for starting up the engine, I removed the spark plugs and put a small capful of oil in each cylinder and turned the engine over a couple of times manually using a wrench on the nut on the forward end of the crankshaft. It hasn’t been started or turned over since mid 2015, so I was pleased to find that it turned quite easily.  While doing this I also fitted a new alternator belt.

My new engine oil, Comma Classic 20W50, has arrived, as did a supply of antifreeze, so tomorrow’s job is to fill the cooling system.  The oil change will have to wait until after I’ve got the engine running to warm the oil up.

[SanRemo78]

Hi Norm - did you know Geoff has a vapour blast cabinet that would have made short work of cleaning that up? Sorry - should have mentioned it!
Guy

[davidwheeler]

I run mine on 10/40 semisynthetic from the local motor factor.    Gives me excellent oil pressure.     I see no reason not to take advantage of modern technology.