Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress

[andyps]

I think I definitely need to open my oil canister. I've got a spare actually so will probably do that one and fit it to the car, and then do the other at a later stage. Certainly doesn't look like it is worth chancing as my engine had been stood a lot longer than yours, although was started a few times just before I got the car and I have run it a little.

I put a relatively cheap 10/40 oil (Halfords semi-synthethic) in mine and plan to change it after a few hundred miles when it should have flushed anything out.

[nthomas1]

Not such a good day today.  Started filling the cooling system only to watch it leaking from the radiator. Fortunately I had a bowl ready so caught most of it.  Hard to see exactly where the leak is but it's definitely not one of the hose junctions.  I had it pressure tested abut 12 months ago and it was deemed to be good at that stage.  Looks like I might be heading for a re-core.

[nthomas1]

I would appreciate some more advice!

I pulled the radiator out this morning ready to take it back to the specialist.  That's made me wonder whether any of the related devices should be inspected and/or replaced:
- Thermostat
- Water temperature sender
- Fan thermoswitch from bottom of radiator

I have removed the temperature sender and cleaned it, but is there anything else I can check on these three devices, or does it make sense to just replace them?  I don't know how much you can tell from a visual inspection.  When I bought the car a cardboard box that came with it contained a used thermostat suggesting that a new one had been fitted.

Another question is: with the radiator out, I now have good access to the alternator.  Does it make sense to strip, inspect and clean it?

[fay66]

I would appreciate some more advice!

I pulled the radiator out this morning ready to take it back to the specialist.  That's made me wonder whether any of the related devices should be inspected and/or replaced:
- Thermostat
- Water temperature sender
- Fan thermoswitch from bottom of radiator

I have removed the temperature sender and cleaned it, but is there anything else I can check on these three devices, or does it make sense to just replace them?  I don't know how much you can tell from a visual inspection.  When I bought the car a cardboard box that came with it contained a used thermostat suggesting that a new one had been fitted.

Another question is: with the radiator out, I now have good access to the alternator.  Does it make sense to strip, inspect and clean it?

Norman,
If it ain't broke dont fix it!
I'm very wary about thermostats, having bought 2 at £60 each that caused me no end of problems, eventually after a considerable time, I realised there was no bleed hole, drilling 1/16th" bleed hole instantly cured my problems.
I also believe that  in the early 2000's a duff batch were made that has a restricted flow rate.
Brian
8227

[nistri]

My own view is to check at least the alternator brushes, the inline fuseholder (near the horns) before the fan switch, the thermostat in a container with hot water to see it opens correctly ideally at 85 degrees, the water temp sender (remove one lead and place it to ground and watch the dial for max temp). It is a fact that aftermarket thremostats are still around (from Peugeot engines) and have a much small water flow unlike the original Savara ones, Andrea

[Derek Creasy]

Total respect and admiration for everything you have done especially given your limitations . My restorations have been very much easier by comparison having  a reasonably decent close workshop  ; but they still they took much longer than they should have --- Well done .

[nthomas1]

Thank you Brian and Andrea for your suggestions, and Derek for your comments.  With regard to limitations, I’m finally planning to get electricity to the garage having at last got agreement to running cables under communal paths.  About 5 years too late, but better late than never!

I’ll angle more towards Brian’s “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” philosophy.  I’ve cleaned the temperature sensor, and I’ve tested the thermostat and found that it works fine.  I found the old thermostat that came with the car and tested that and found that it didn’t open.  Interesting to compare the two.  I had already replaced the in-line fuse in the radiator fan electrical feed and checked that the fan was working.  I’ll leave the alternator alone for the moment.  With the practice I’ve had I’m now able to remove air box, fan and radiator fairly quickly so am not so worried now about accessibility of the alternator for future maintenance.

Had a closer look at the radiator now that it’s out of the car.  Part-filled it and was able to see the fluid escape.  The fins seem dry and it looks like the problem is with a seam in the lower box.  I’ll see what the specialist has to say.  There’s a vapour blast facility close by the rad specialist so I’ve taken the cam cover off and will have that treated at the same time as the rad is being worked on.  Nice to see the valve gear for the first time.

The two long bolts holding the radiator to the subframe are different.  The left had one in the picture, 84mm overall length,  is correct.  The other sticks out a long way below the car and has no hole for the split pin.  If anybody has a spare one for sale, or even the complete fastener assembly with sleeve, rubber mounts and nut, I’d be interested in buying it.

Final job today was fine tuning the driver’s door to even up the gaps.  Vertical position was about right, but the door needed moving forward a few millimetres.   I found that putting tape on the hinges and marking position of the door helped see the effect of any adjustments made.  To move the door to the right I would leave the bottom hinge fastened and loosen off the bolts in the top hinge.  That allowed the trailing end of the door to be lifted slightly, thereby moving the top of the leading edge forward, using the pencil marks on the tape to judge the extent of movement.  I then fastened one bolt in the top hinge, and repeated the adjustment process this time loosening the lower hinge and lowering the trailing edge of the door to move the lower leading edge forward, again using the marks on the tape to judge the amount of movement. Doing this a couple of times I achieved the result I was looking for. The final step was adjusting the striker plate on the door jamb so that it aligned with the door lock prong.

I can now trim the door (window winder, lock mechanism, door trim card, arm rest, door-open strap, trailing light) which will finish the interior work on the car.

[davidwheeler]

Re. radiator bolt I would think two minutes with hacksaw and file would sort it.  Then use a nyloc nut if you cannot drill the split pin hole.    You can take originality too far you know!

[nthomas1]

Re. radiator bolt I would think two minutes with hacksaw and file would sort it.  Then use a nyloc nut if you cannot drill the split pin hole.    You can take originality too far you know!

Point taken! I assumed the bolt would have been hardened such that it would be too difficult to cut through. I’ll give it a try.

[dhla40]

The radiator bottom tank leak is caused by the steel mounting bracket corroding and pulling its spot welds(?) away from the brass tank.  To fix mine I had to remove the bracket and solder brass plates over the many holes in the tank. A bit of a pain to be honest, probably best to find a better rad.

Sean

[nthomas1]

New shock absorbers fitted.  They are Wiktor brand, gas filled, made in Italy.  I may change to something more sophisticated if I ever drop the front subframe and change the front shocks, in which case I may go for higher end adjustables all round.  These were only £50 each.

The oil leak in one of the originals is visible in the second picture.

I’m waiting for the new radiator to arrive, hopefully by the end of the week.

[nthomas1]

The new radiator arrived and looks to be very well made. 

I decided to buy a new thermo-switch as well, so first job was to fit that, with some plumber’s tape around the thread.  I noticed that the earth wire from the thermo-switch was badly frayed where it connects to one of the sump bolts so I fitted a new ring terminal.  I fitted M5 cage nuts in the side and bottom fan mounting brackets and test fitted the fan to the radiator.  The bottom fitting is not that accessible so it is as well to know in advance that the mounting bolt threads freely in the cage nut.  I took Dave’s advice and shortened the second of the long lower mounting bolts that pass through the subframe so that the two bolts now match. 

Now that the radiator and fan are in place, tomorrow’s job is connecting the remaining hoses and filling the system with antifreeze mix. I hope it will be more successful than when I tried last week and discovered the leak!

[my69S1]

Norm, looks great. 

Where did you source the rad?  As you said, it looks well made.  And where did you get the M5 cage nuts?  I have been searching but everyone wants to sell them in lots of 50.

[SanRemo78]

I thought tomorrows job was collecting the cam cover from the vapour blasters? It looks really great by the way!

[nthomas1]

my69S1 - I'll send you a pm ref the cage nuts and rad.

Guy - yes, I'm looking forward to collecting the cam cover.  I'm waiting on a call that the old rad is ready for collection - as the repair specialist is also in Widnes.