Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress

[nthomas1]

Hi Peter - some interesting information there.  Apparently it's not just about the hoses.  I've been advised that the red antifreeze can be harmful to solder and brass, and that it can damage gaskets and rubber O-ring seals.

[nthomas1]

After setbacks with the leaking radiator and use of the wrong antifreeze I took a break from working on the car.  Now that Christmas,  the bad weather and a fractured rib are out of the way I got back to working on the car this week.

I’m hoping to start the engine in the next few days - after 5 years dormant.  I put a couple of 10 litre cans of premium petrol in the tank, and topped up the new Varta battery.  I connected up the choke and throttle cables, and the clutch linkage.  

The spring on the clutch pedal in the driver footwell had snapped at one end so I fitted a new one.  With the spring as received it was impossible for me to hook the ends through the holes in the pedal and the boss on the bulkhead.  Someone more nimble than me might have managed it!  I cut off a few millimetres from each of the end loops and that enabled me to hook them in place. You can see in the picture where I’ve cut one end.

I performed one more check of hoses and fuel lines and their fastenings and discovered fuel weeping from the filler neck feed into the fuel tank.  At first I thought it was condensation but could see that the paint had bubbled on the filler neck - that’s the bare patches in the third picture.  My first thoughts were that I might have to siphon out the fuel and re-do the connection.  It’s a notoriously problematic part of the car - with a threaded nylon retaining ring attached to the neck (metal on Series 1, I believe) , and a square o-ring to make the seal.  It took me a long time to get the thread started and you have to be very careful not to overtighten the nylon ring.   If the retaining ring gets damaged it means a new filler neck assembly is required as the ring can’t be replaced because of the flanges at either end of the neck.  I had used a strap wrench to do the tightening originally, and thought I’d tightened as far as was sensible.  However, I had another go and managed about a three quarter turn which might do the job.  I’ve put some paper towel over the join to better see any leakage, and will check it in the morning.

Next steps are to crank up some oil pressure, prime the fuel system, fit the plugs and then try starting the engine.  Exciting times - but I admit to feeling (irrationally??) quite nervous about it all!

[nistri]

To start a long inactive engine would be a good idea to remove the 4 sparkplugs and spin the starter motor for 30 seconds to build up oil pressure, then quickly fit the plugs again, Andrea

[Jaydub]

Re read his post Andrea, I have already instructed Norm on the procedure.

[andyps]

Fingers crossed for when you try to start it, exciting moment!

[nthomas1]

Major milestone today.  Started the engine for first time since my renovation project started 5 years ago.  

The engine had been rebuilt about 12 months before I bought the car and the carburettors had been overhauled by Omicron, and the engine was running before the rebuild, so I wasn’t expecting any major issues. But I wanted to be careful by starting it up in as sympathetic a manner as possible after such a long period dormant.   I went through the following steps after getting some greatly appreciated expert input, especially from Jaydub. Steps 1 and 2 were completed last week, but I thought it worth listing the total process that I've followed.

As preparatory work, I filled cooling system, added 20 litres of premium fuel to the tank. Topped up the battery charge, and connected both battery cables. Disconnected the power feed from the coil to the Facet electric fuel pump. Removed the spark plugs.

Step 1 - To check pistons moving freely.
Used wrench on bolt on front of engine to turn it manually. The engine turned readily I’m glad to say.

Step 2 - Visual check of valve gear.
Removed cam cover and visually checked the cam lobes. Didn’t check the gaps or timing as I don’t (yet) knows how to, so relied for now on the fact that the engine had been rebuilt just before I bought the car.  Checked the tension of the timing chain. All seemed fine. Fitted a new perimeter gasket and two new “spectacles” gaskets.

Step 3 - Prime fuel system.
Connected a fused lead from the battery to the Facet and ran it until fuel appeared in the see-through paper filter holder.

Step 4 - Got some oil circulating.
Disconnected power lead from fuse panel to coil.  Turned the engine over via the ignition key.

Step 5 - Engine start.
Fitted four new NGK BP7ES spark plugs, gapped to 0.6mm, and connected the plug leads,  Re-connected the fuse panel feed to the coil.  Connected the power feed from coil to Facet.  Attempted to start the engine.

The engine was reluctant to start first time round.  I had tried with choke out but was advised may be better without choke, just gentle throttle.  Waited a while then tried again.  Still would not catch.  Loosened the large (19mm approx) brass nut adjacent to the fuel pipe feed into the first carb and ran the Facet independent of the ignition circuit.  This confirmed that fuel was reaching the carbs  Removed one of the spark plugs to see if it was wet, and it was not.

I put the car back in the garage with the intention of letting things settle over night, but tried the ignition key one final time, and the engine burst into life.  Showing about 70 on the oil pressure gauge.  Very pleased with the outcome!

[Neil]

Well done Norm, you are almost there now very satisfying I’m sure.

[SanRemo78]

And you were't tempted to drive it out and back in Norm? Congratulations on making that milestone, I can imagine the smile on your face!
Guy

[davidwheeler]

I find mine needs full "choke" (actually starting carburettor) when starting from cold.

[Keithver]

fantastic news. It looks like one hell of a job that you have done. Inspiring. Congratulations

[my69S1]

Excellent news Norm.  I can just imagine the huge smile on your face when it started and kept running.  Maybe even a whoop to anyone in the area.

Is that a heat shield under the hood braces (what did you use?) or is it just painted black?

[nthomas1]

Thanks chaps - yes, the whoops of delight when the engine fired up could probably be heard around the neighbourhood.  I'm surprised you couldn't hear them in Ontario, Marcus!

David, my recollection from my two previous Fulvias, back in the late 1970s, was that I always used choke when starting from cold.  I'll experiment with different approaches once I have the engine running smoothly.

[nthomas1]

Is that a heat shield under the hood braces (what did you use?) or is it just painted black?
[/quote]

It is 6mm closed cell foam.  Bought on a roll, adhesive one side.  I cut paper templates to get the shape right.  Was able to tuck it under the strengthening ribs in a few places where the  gap allowed it.

[lancianut666]

Congratulations the car is looking fantastic...and the engine works Result!
Clarkey

[eog]

Congratulations you even have the registration plate to go with the car NRL
Norm’s Restored Lancia!
Looks great