I said that I would never buy another Fulvia ....

[lancianut666]

I'm thinking the Appia consortium has some of those plates...
Clarkey

[simonandjuliet]

Thanks Jim, any chance you can have a look ?

[simonandjuliet]

Norm, a brief list of steps (do ask for more detail if req.) but usually as follows:

• Remove as large a bit as possible (axle/subframe etc)
  Roughly de-grease - I use either a "swarfega" degreaser or "no-nonsense" from Screwfix, brush it on and leave for a while
  Pressure wash it all
  Take it to bits - as many bits as possible
  Bit at a time - remove loose rust with a wire brush and then either strip to shiny metal with a roloc tool and disks or soak in phosphoric acid (approx 30% conc) for 2 hrs to 2 days depending on the rustiness. This stuff is amazing , but takes time and does strip cadmium coatings etc
  Then for pitted bits, I tend to use a rust converter (again acid based ), primer and then topcoat - usually acrylic because it dries quickly
  For shiny bits, degrease with acetone then etch primer and top coat
  Aluminium/brass I use scotchbrite (works well soaked in white spirit on alloy castings !)
  I use a lot of scothbrite because I usually go over everything that is going to get a coat of paint
  For some metal bits I use an acrylic lacquer to protect the cleaned "patrina"
  I also use a very good brush on high temp paint from Halfords for brake parts and exhausts
  
  For the axle , I used an oil based paint with anti-rust agents (not Hammerite which I think has gone down hill)  because I felt that this is something that will get abuse so wanted a more elastic, tougher finish
  

It is difficult to be exact and I'm always discovering and trying new approaches and products, but I try and use things that can be easily touched up because the always get chipped or scraped when you are putting it all back together. I would love to powdercoat everything but it isn't practical for me

Hope it's not too vague !

[simonandjuliet]

Finished cleaning and painting the rest of the bits and silentblocs fitted in the second spring - they needed a good chamfer to ease fitting.

Springs on, axle on and passenger side handbrake, backplate etc done - few detail shots .... the brake parts were all cleaned and then lacquered so they shouldn't rust again (??)

Most difficult job was refitting the Panhard rod, it needed a very sturdy brace across the car to line it up. All the silentblocs are loose until the correct ride height is attained and then they will be tightened.

Sorry about the paint runs, they will be dealt with as part of a general touch up when it is all back together !

New handbrake cable fitted because there was a broken strand on one side

[nthomas1]

Many thanks for the "step-by-step" Simon.  Invaluable for novices like me!
 

[frankxhv773t]

Norm, if I may add my two pennyworth; once as much rust as possible has been removed by abrasive means I use Kurust as a converter but I make sure it's the one you can paint over rather than the sort you have to wash off. It goes against the grain to rust convert steel then chuck water on it to wash the chemicals off. If I am brush painting suspension parts I then prime with red lead or grey zinc rust proof primer and finish with black smooth hammerite (I think I'm less particular than Simon). I did these Y10 drive shafts several years ago and they still look fine.

[nthomas1]

Great.  Thanks Frank.  More grist fr the mill.

[davidwheeler]

I am currently repairing the front wings where I filled the gap between inner and outer with Builders' foam - fine where it remained attached but a disaster where it didn't.   How big a gap will Sikaflex fill, Simon?

[Parisien]

David, in this months Classic Cars, Omicron restore a Flaminia  and mention the use of closed cell foam to separate the tubular frame from outer aluminium panels.


P

[simonandjuliet]

David
I cut the nozzle down to give a bigger bead and I have filled a gap up to approx 1/2" but not gone beyond that - shame we can't get DumDum any more .

[fay66]

David
I cut the nozzle down to give a bigger bead and I have filled a gap up to approx 1/2" but not gone beyond that - shame we can't get DumDum any more .

Hi Simon,
As you know i worked for Vauxhall Motors  for 24 years, one of the perks was being able to buy surplus materials from time to time, one of my better buys was a roll of Dum Dum,that 50 years on is still pliable.
 I do very little with cars these days so only need to keep a little for future use .
So, would you like it?.
Hope you are both well.

Brian

[simonandjuliet]

yes please ! I'll drop you a line

[davidwheeler]

David, in this months Classic Cars, Omicron restore a Flaminia  and mention the use of closed cell foam to separate the tubular frame from outer aluminium panels.


P

I wonder if this is spray or sheet?     Not exposed to salty spray anway so a somewhat different situation?  The problem on mine was water getting in behind the foam.

[lancialulu]

David, in this months Classic Cars, Omicron restore a Flaminia  and mention the use of closed cell foam to separate the tubular frame from outer aluminium panels.


P

I wonder if this is spray or sheet?     Not exposed to salty spray anway so a somewhat different situation?  The problem on mine was water getting in behind the foam.

IMHO there is not place for Foam to seal between the body and the chassis. I removed all mine from my 1600 Sport (and some conveyor belt that a previous restorer had bunged in between the gap and seam welded the body onto the chassis (well I didnt do it but my metal man did).

[DavidLaver]

Saw the article today.  "Tips" include hot zinc spray (not dipping as the heat can cause distortion), and gas welding ali not TIG so the material stays malleable. 

A google on zinc spray gave this:

https://www.johndesmond.com/blog/environment/the-hot-zinc-spraying-process/

...and closed cell foam:

https://www.efoam.co.uk/closed-cell-polyethylene-foam.php?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkJHAqIW_2QIVBLXtCh0D4AoIEAAYASAAEgJIfvD_BwE

Which is what I used in "my" Aurelia (Simon's before me, Jason and Louise Kennedy now).  I stuck something like three quarter inch foam onto heavy ribbed rubber mats.  They were tough and practical and absorbed a lot of noise on the road, but were quick and easy to remove for track events.