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Yes Tim, 4th srs did have a relay which is of course slightly safer electricity wise . I find the original horns to be very loud actually-maybe you need to change to some FIAMM Air horns which were an aftermarket accessory back them? I might be able to help you with a age appropriate set but I cant check until towards the end of January.
Chris

Thanks William. I have that diagram in Paul Mayo's manual. I note that the 4th series DID have a relay. My installation looks all orignal, so maybe they did fit a relay later on in 3rd series. My horns both work but I find them inadequate for modern driving where people have so many distractions. I need a horn to wake them up!! I've established which is the live - T, so I'll connect it up to the new horn...the aptly named Denali Sound Bomb, made in Italy!

The standard pair of horns, which I think are usually Fiamm, don't need a separate relay and are plenty loud enough for most people's taste. I can probably find you a pair...

Here's the S3 wiring diagram. You could make a tester with a bulb to trace the wires...

Spot on, well done. And no-one needs to know about the ingenious carbon fibre update!

Can anyone help me with the terminals on this Fiamm horn relay please? I don't know if it's original to my Aurelia but the relay fitted is like in the photo below. The 3 terminals are marked T, B and G. Can you tell me what these correspond to on a modern relay, or where they should be wired too?

I'm not very good with wiring and the wires disappear into the loom, so I can't trace them physically. Reason is that I'm adding a supplementary horn to increase the volume!

 

Hi All

Just had confirmation of an offer for the stand which will house 4 cars. We have a black Beta HPE which is great, so if anyone fancies having their Beta on the stand (I am not necessarily looking for pristine cars, unlike the November show) please get in touch.

The Thema/Dedra Consortium have agreed to supply 2 cars.

Lastly if anyone can spare the time to help man the stand on any of the days that would also be appreciated, as usual exhibitor wristbands would be provided.

Thanks in advance

Peter

Great effort, looks fantastic!

P

And finished.....

Although this appears to be a rare problem, I'll tell you how I went about it... Quite involved, not for the faint hearted. I removed the side trims and the aluminium rear screen surround. Released the headlining, having marked many reference points for gluing it back in, on the headlining and interior panels, to make sure it went back in the same place. I then removed the bows working from back towards front.

The bows are of spring steel but mine didn't have much strength and were easy to distort. After some consideration I decided to bond some carbon fibre strips onto the bows, which has made them much stronger. Luckily there was a strip available measuring 11 x 1.8mm. I bonded it to the bows using PU18, after keying both surfaces. Then reinstalled from front to back. The reference markings were essential to get it back in the right position. The long side trim pieces also help to do some final tensioning of the headlining. All seems to have worked successfully and back in with no creases. I haven't road tested it yet but I am confident!!!

Thank you for the advice, particularly William!

Hi julian67. I need a Series 2 boot lock. I wonder if you still have one?
Kind regards Len