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Author Topic: Toe-in  (Read 6568 times)
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Mikenoangelo
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« Reply #15 on: 01 November, 2022, 11:46:56 AM »

That makes sense to me Karl. However although when driving the main force for self centering no doubt comes from caster angle, with the bolts nipping the inner sleeve of the bushes there is a significant self centering effect even with the car jacked up off the ground.
I'd better devise some means of measuring toe in  and investigate my car again and try loosening and greasjng the bolts.
.

Mike Clark
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Running Board
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« Reply #16 on: 01 November, 2022, 01:37:29 PM »

As I have predicted, the subject is gaining momentum!

May I pass my personal opinion. The “eccentric” silent blocs (bushes)

With all respects what the late Morris has passed to us Augusta boys by publishing the Augusta Newsletter and collecting valuable information for us to use, there was one little thing Morris and I agreed that we don’t agree: the eccentric bushes in the Augusta steering. I do agree that there are other applications which are using eccentric bushes as Morris has stated.

Now, why would Lancia go to the expense and install adjustable eccentric bolts in the steering when the toe-in could be adjusted by eccentric bushes? And how would that be done during assembly of the car in the factory? As experience shows, the range of adjustment by the standard bolts is enough in most of all track rod lengths.
If a eccentric bushes are found on a car, they are very old and the car has been standing a long time in a position causing permanent load on the bushes, thereby getting deformed (plastic flow).

Another point that might rise an eye brow or two: to clamp or not to clamp the silent blocs.
I think the bolt in question is not designed the inner bush of the silent bloc to be clamped to the track rod. The surface area is just to small.  If clamping would be needed, there would be a serrated bush like the silent bloc at the front of the rear springs. The nut is very light, the few treads can be stripped easily. I don’t think the rubber in the  silent bloc is soft enough to allow a turning of 60° + as it does at the drop arm at full lock. Therefore, I believe that the bolt should be tightened just snug to allow the inner bush of the silent bloc turning around the eccentric bolt. There is only little movement while driving, even on a curved road, there is almost no wear.
There is an argument that the twisting of the rubber would aid the self-centering effect of the steering. It might help, but I think the self-centering is done by the built-in castor.

On my car, in the last 60 years, I have changed many silent blocs but there are still the original bolts present. Every couple of years, I remove them and put a light coat of grease to the bolt and bush. For about 2 years or about 6’000 miles I use PU silent blocs which Peter Renou has given me to test. No problem.

I look forward to the comments.

Regards

Karl  


I think we will have to agree to disagree too , a couple of major points that are being over looked , no one seems to be able to get the correct toe on their vehicles with concentric bushes and a standard track rod , yet my car has had the correct track for 16 years with eccentric bushes and standard track rod  no issues .
you still require the eccentric pins to fine adjust the vehicles track , it would be crazy to try and adjust the toe accurately by rotation of the eccentric bush on its own .
Did  Lancia send every Augusta out of the factory with the wrong length trackrod?
Why wouldn't Lancia fit eccentric bushes? many other manufacturers do , i cannot answer why they fit them , like i have said previously i cannot answer why they are used in the steering on truck trailers .........but they are.
rubber doesn't move uniformly when taking a "set" like you describe , it will bulge rather like a tyre does when it goes flat and generally the center metal sleeve  becomes detached from the rubber , yes i have seen silent blocks do this so we can agree on that  , However , the block that i've posted a picture of ,the rubber is clearly flat and uniform , nothing has shifted or taken a set .
Its a real shame as around 10 years ago we bought some parts from the late Norman Stewarts estate , included 1 brand new eccentric bush which i'm damned if i can find !
« Last Edit: 01 November, 2022, 01:50:22 PM by Running Board » Logged

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Raahauge
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« Reply #17 on: 01 November, 2022, 06:23:38 PM »

I don't imagine that the eccentric rubber bushes would have been any more expensive than the concentric variety and they could easily have been assembled in a more or less neutral position on build. That would have given the factory an easy solution if they were not able to achieve the correct toe-in with the only the eccentric pins.
For general information/interest. I originally installed Igus joints that were 12mm bore and 26mm od ref. KGLM12. (same dimensions as the rubber bush)
I have now spotted that there is another in their range with the same bore but with an od of 22mm ref. EGLM12 which is shorter axially and a lower capacity but still robust enough, (3800N compared with 5400N). This would allow me to make eccentric sleeves and thus fix my problem.
I agree with Kari that one might have expected a serrated sleeve if the inners were not expected to rotate, expense did not seem to be a constraint.
Has anyone seen any discussion from Aprilia or Aurelia owners which have the same arrangement?
Mike R


* Igus bush.jpg (604.38 KB, 3024x4032 - viewed 178 times.)
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Kari
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« Reply #18 on: 02 November, 2022, 10:31:44 AM »

No problems James, the discussion serves to solve technical issues on our Augustas.
I was wondering if the diagonal tyres installed at the factory, required a toe-in of 5 -7 mm, measured at the rim, in order to run straight. That would explain the length of the original track rods. I don't know the length of my original track rod, as it was destroyed in an accident. Then, the (second hand) replacement was deeply corroded on the outside, a fact I didn't like. Then I had a new rod made using the original forks. This rod is 1116 mm. I have measured a toe-in of 2 mm which feels fine with my Michelin X tyres, however the data is only approximate as the rims are not quite true anymore after 87 years.

The IGUS joints, which are used by Mike seem to be a good solution. Will they last when subject to water and dirt?

Decades ago, I have inherited a tool which serves to measure toe-in. With it, the distance between the inside of the rims can be measured at the 3 and 9 o'clock position. The difference determines the toe-in.
If there is interest to build one, I'll be glad to pass on the dimensions. The photo is distorted due to the camera angle, all angles are 90°.

Regards

Karl


* IMG_4022.JPG (329.96 KB, 1479x858 - viewed 142 times.)
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Running Board
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« Reply #19 on: 02 November, 2022, 11:11:14 AM »

No problems James, the discussion serves to solve technical issues on our Augustas.
I was wondering if the diagonal tyres installed at the factory, required a toe-in of 5 -7 mm, measured at the rim, in order to run straight. That would explain the length of the original track rods. I don't know the length of my original track rod, as it was destroyed in an accident. Then, the (second hand) replacement was deeply corroded on the outside, a fact I didn't like. Then I had a new rod made using the original forks. This rod is 1116 mm. I have measured a toe-in of 2 mm which feels fine with my Michelin X tyres, however the data is only approximate as the rims are not quite true anymore after 87 years.

The IGUS joints, which are used by Mike seem to be a good solution. Will they last when subject to water and dirt?

Decades ago, I have inherited a tool which serves to measure toe-in. With it, the distance between the inside of the rims can be measured at the 3 and 9 o'clock position. The difference determines the toe-in.
If there is interest to build one, I'll be glad to pass on the dimensions. The photo is distorted due to the camera angle, all angles are 90°.

Regards

Karl
Just  for future reference , we use a snap on / john bean 3d alignment system in work , very over the top for a pre war car but has one massive advantage , it detects run out on wheels and compensates for this which is really handy with the state of old wheels  , some rims we see run out of 3mm+ especially wire wheels , the system can be programmed for any vehicle provided you have your own information to input (toe , camber angles) very clever how it does it , the system is used world wide , hunter use snap on's software on their 3d aligner too so this should be able to be done by any reputable garage with one of these aligners
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MichaelElsom
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« Reply #20 on: 02 March, 2023, 03:18:04 PM »

At long last it would seem that my car may be back on the road.
In the course of the various jobs I had to change the track rod as the original had got bent - don't be rude enough to ask how....
The axle on the car has eccentric bushes (as does my spare front axle), it is a second series car and as far as I am aware the two track rods started out the same length. My tyres are the Michelin Comfort type.
I replaced the pins in the places I had marked before removing them and so hope the track won't have been disturbed. Bearing in mind my general level of incompetence it is quite possible that I haven't achieved that.
Having tried to follow the learning on toe-in I feel I ought to get it checked.
Please can someone tell me what it ought to be?
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Mikenoangelo
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« Reply #21 on: 03 March, 2023, 01:19:46 PM »

The very first post on this thread by Mike Rahauge quotes 6-8 mm as per the Uk version of the instruction book, this will be from  rim to rim.
Mike Clark
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